October 17, 2011
I've had my 15-2 for over 20 years now, and my 8"V shroud has been a problem...
It turns out that I can't get repeatable installations when I put on my 8" Vent barrel/shroud. Probably why I got my Dan so cheap!
It looks like that there is no taper inside the muzzle end of the shroud for the nut to consistently index the barrel to the shroud. The 'seat' where the nut would sit is flat. Sometimes it'll seat one way, and another it will be in a completely different place. That makes my sights off by a bunch - even at 50'! Probably why I got the gun so cheap!!!
How can I put a tapered seat into the shroud to force it to index properly? Take it to a 'smith? Touch it with a tapered countersink/stone myself?
HELP!!!???
May 3, 2011
Welcome to the forum.
You need to take a pic of it so we can see the problem. It may be simple as brazing a modified washer inside the top of the shroud or something similar. Eric [EWK] would be the man IMOP to check it out. He makes shrouds. He might have a simple fix.
May 17, 2010
On a model 15-2, there is a pressed in "indexing pin" the pin is pressed into the frame where the barrel screws into the frame. There is complimentary indexing hole in the shroud. There have been instances of the pin falling out or getting stuck in one shroud and then becoming "lost".
I am not following the "taper" for the barrel nut. The muzzle end should be recessed and square ( as far as I know). The shroud should index per above. The barrel does not itself index, but is screwed in and out as needed to set the gap.
Pics would help... muzzle of the shroud, frame end of the shroud, and barrel end of the frame.
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4 Monson Model 15's
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November 17, 2008
First to the . OK you made me go look. I looked at several shrouds and yes there is a taper on the surface where the barrel nut seats. Although the tolerances of the barrel to the shroud are real minute the taper will force it to center when tight. If yours is flat (90degrees) it may be a problem/may not. Let some others jump in here to see if "all" shrouds have this taper and as mentioned pics will help.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
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January 24, 2009
That's an interesting thought to a barrel alignment problem, one I hadn't thought of before. I looked at a couple of mine too, and the shrouds do have a slight taper where the nut seats. The .44 mag shroud I looked at has a more obvious taper to it, for whatever reason.
Now the factory nuts look perfectly flat on the bottom, but looking at a couple of EWK's nuts, those do have a slight taper to them. I don't know if he did that intentionally, or to simply smooth off any burrs left from machining.
Gary's washer idea might be a possible fix, or like he said, ask Eric at EWK. Chances are, Eric (or any gunsmith, for that matter) could easily cut a taper into your shroud & into the corresponding nut.
BTW, it's common knowledge that each time you remove a DW shroud, you will need to re-zero your sights when you reassemble the gun. There will always be a slight alignment variation each time the barrel is reinstalled on the gun.
December 27, 2010
Charger Fan said:
That's an interesting thought to a barrel alignment problem, one I hadn't thought of before. I looked at a couple of mine too, and the shrouds do have a slight taper where the nut seats. The .44 mag shroud I looked at has a more obvious taper to it, for whatever reason.
Now the factory nuts look perfectly flat on the bottom, but looking at a couple of EWK's nuts, those do have a slight taper to them. I don't know if he did that intentionally, or to simply smooth off any burrs left from machining.
Gary's washer idea might be a possible fix, or like he said, ask Eric at EWK. Chances are, Eric (or any gunsmith, for that matter) could easily cut a taper into your shroud & into the corresponding nut.
I looked at factory nuts and 1 22 nut had a noticeable taper on bottom of nut and in shroud nut seat more that 15-2.
BTW, it's common knowledge that each time you remove a DW shroud, you will need to re-zero your sights when you reassemble the gun. There will always be a slight alignment variation each time the barrel is reinstalled on the gun.
October 13, 2009
Its just a chamfer on the nuts I make…ie so there is no sharp corner to cut your fingers on…also the shrouds I make don't have the taper in them.
I have seen it both ways on original DW's, some of the taper, others don't.
In my opinion this is not causing the problem. For the amount of play you have between the barrel and the shroud, even if its cocking to one side or the other, one is not going to pick up that small amount with iron sights.
More so, as mentioned, the aligning pin, and also the squareness of the shroud and the frame. If its way off, it may be bending the barrel when tightned!
I would try another barrel assembly or at aleast another barrel and see what happens. Could be a bad barrel. As mentioned, you can expect to resight a DW after changing barrels.
October 17, 2011
The alignment pin is there and OK, the problem is that when I pit the 8" barrel/shroud on, the shroud is straight, but the lack of a tapered seat for the barrel nut does not center the barrel in the shroud. The muzzle end of the barrel is not being held concentric with the shroud.
Sometimes I have to crank the rear sight all of the way over one way, and the next time I put that barrel/shroud on I have to crank it the other way, or up... or down... Some times I run out of rear sight adjustment entirely!
What I'd really like is for someone to tell me how best to put a taper in that shroud. Send it to a 'smith? I'd hat to irrevocably mess it up by doing it wrong.
BTW, I don't have this problem with the other barrels/shrouds I have because those have a tapered seat for the barrel nut. Just my 8" shroud has the problem!
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November 17, 2008
October 13, 2009
Say a .535 shroud bore...and say .525 barrel diameter. That would mean if your barrel is all the way against one side of the shroud, your front sight location has moved .005". About the thickness of the gap gage. Doesn't make sense to me that the rear sight has to be cranked all the way to one side with a .005" movement of the front sight location.
With the chamfer if you decide to do it yourself, just be careful you don't go too deep. Good idea to cut it square with the shroud bore too.
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