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July 12, 2020
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Now I have had this PP for a few months and I have been slowly going thru the different barrels. I put the 4" on yesterday and set the gap at .004 after tightening the barrel nut. Did the same for the 8" and 6" I shot before and no problems. But I put just one round in this morning to see where POI is compared to the 6" sight set up and bang. Hole in target, good.... cylinder locked up tight, not good. Came home and removed barrel and found this stuck in the cone of the barrel.
Looks like the jacket got hung up going into the cone and the lead slug pushed thru it and fired out thru the barrel to the target and beyond. The jacket was hanging out of the lead end of the barrel a few hundredths locking up the cylinder. When I installed the barrel I did not notice anything unusual but I did not really thoroughly eyeball it inside the bore. There is some residual in the cone area now so I am soaking it in some #9 and will clean it real good later to reinstall. What else should I be aware/looking for like a burr or ???. If there is a burr or other in this area can it be dressed with a fine file or stone without adversely affecting the function of the barrel???
Thanks in advance
February 12, 2018
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The forcing cone look out of round ?
Ammo problem ?
A burr in cone or on ammo ?
Fluke ?
Friday a thief ,Sunday a king
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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Same box of ammo as shot out of the 6" barrel. I will check when I clean it in a bit for a burr or other interference. Hoping its a fluke.
February 16, 2016
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605Dart said
I put the 4" on yesterday and set the gap at .004 after tightening the barrel nut.
How do you adjust the gap after you tighten the barrel nut ?
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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I don't I set it at .006 and after snugging it must spin the barrel in some so it usually ends up between .003/.004. I mark the top of the barrel end and it moves a tick.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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When you set the gap and tighten the nut put your right thumb on the forcing cone with pressure while you tighten the nut snuggly. Do not over tighten. .004 should be okay with most guns. IMHO. Okay, I am really not very humble. But always have your tool with you when shooting. Also, do not force the shim into the gap. It will push the cylinder back against the dedent ball and when the shim is removed the gap will be smaller. I don't use a shim. I hold the gun to a light as I screw the barrel in and eyeball it. In a very short time you will be able to set whatever gap you want.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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First thing I'd check is the bore diameter. I've never had a jacket separate from the core. Is that manufactured or reloaded ammunition? If reloaded, I'd also check diameter of the bullet.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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It is Norma factory ammo. I used part of this box shooting thru the 6" barrel with no problems. After cleaning cone area is clean no burrs or defects. I will check bore diameter and I will check cylinder alignment in lock up again. Hoping it was a fluke with the ammo.
August 8, 2016
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rwsem said
First thing I'd check is the bore diameter. I've never had a jacket separate from the core. Is that manufactured or reloaded ammunition? If reloaded, I'd also check diameter of the bullet.
This.
What caliber is the DW?? I started to wonder if you got a different caliber barrel tube but I "think" the threads are different with each caliber to prevent you from using the wrong caliber barrel tube?
Are they new CZ/DW barrel assemblies or old vintage DW barrel assemblies?
February 21, 2011
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I hate to ask, but is it possible to reverse the barrel accidentally?
Having the muzzle as a forcing cone would be pretty nasty!
I assume DW was smart enough to make it impossible or at least highly noticeable.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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They are all the original PP barrels. Definitely a .357 barrel. And there is no way to put the barrel on backwards as there are not enough threads on the nut side to thread thru the frame.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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They are the same thread on both ends. Yes, different calibers have different thread counts to prevent accidental misuse. Dan Wesson debated making interchangable caliber guns but decided there were to many legal risks. Manhuran and Janz did or do make interchangable calibers.
I have barrel tubes with longer muzzle threads than the the normal amount. Have you tried shooting the 4" again?
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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I didn't get a chance on Sunday but will next weekend at the latest. I checked everything mentioned and then some and feel the gun is right. I have some lower powered .38spl I shoot thru my 52-2 maybe I will put a few of these down the pipe first, just in case as they would be less likely to damage the gun as much as a stouter .357 load.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Ole Dog said
They are the same thread on both ends. Yes, different calibers have different thread counts to prevent accidental misuse. Dan Wesson debated making interchangable caliber guns but decided there were to many legal risks. Manhuran and Janz did or do make interchangable calibers.I have barrel tubes with longer muzzle threads than the the normal amount. Have you tried shooting the 4" again?
If someone (like me; a guy I know) machined the barrel threads to match an incorrect frame, (e.g. .410" tube to a 740 frame) there's a chance the tube could be the wrong caliber.... (BTW it's an interchangeable .357 SM/.414 SM frankendan).
Eric, I had a 41 cal tube that was made on Monday and fully threaded with forcing cones cut on both ends. The opposite could be true- is there a forcing cone cut? It still shouldn't have caused, but may have been a factor, to the separation. If that's not it, I'd go with your plan until you're satisfied it was an ammunition issue.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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Now that would be a hell of a crown!!!! But there is no forcing cone on muzzle end and there is only about a .25" of threads on that end.
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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Ok, I did take the 715 with the 4" to the range today. First thing is I was going over the gun again and noticed that when I cocked the hammer for SA that I could spin the cylinder in the direction of rotation a good .050"+ until it stopped moving. It would do this on about half of the chambers and then the lock up would be tight with no slop on the rest. I am now thinking my problem may lie here with a misaligned chamber. Up until now the gun never had an issue or I was just lucky. I did check the lockup when I first bought the gun and the function was correct. I will definitely need help on this one as I have never tore into a revolver before nor know what to look for first. Today I did shoot some of my 38spl loads and a .357 also. It shot without incident but I made sure the cylinder was fully in lock before pulling the trigger.
February 21, 2011
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I would check the hand #38 & its spring #43 (the lever that comes up & forward out of the recoil shield & rotates the cylinder) & the bolt #37 & its spring #34 (the lever that pops up from below to engage the cylinder to lock it in place.)
The hand would be my big first suspect.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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Much thanks! For the diagnosis and the schematic.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Under Gunsmithing is the pinned thread "The Average Joe Tuneup". It has pictures and step by step instruction. It is easy and fun.
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