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February 11, 2011
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I live in Kansas City, Missouri. I really like the gun and need it to be inspected and made to work correctly.
I reached out to http://heffronfirearmclassics.com this afternoon by e mail but have not heard back and don't expect to until tomorrow at the earliest (it is Sunday, of course).
I am kind of frustrated and disappointed. Any words of encouragement or advice would be helpful. I am imagining that just not every Tom, Dick or Harry gunsmith can work on this piece. I don't want to sell or trade knowing it malfunctions and I certainly cannot rely on it until it is tested and the malfunction diagnosed and fixed.
It was not the ammo. I tried two different types and it was new.
October 26, 2010
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Welcome to the forums!!
Dont be frustrated, I understand the feeling, and have been there myself with what I think is the EXACT same problem.
The trigger was getting stuck, it seemed randomly in both positions, pulled and in the normal position.
Some of the members here suggested a deep cleaning and theres an excellent guide here for it done by SHOOTIST37:
https://www.danwessonforum.com/?page_id=3/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/
I suggest cleaning it in great detail.
Also opening the frame up can be intimidating trust me but its well worth it, it might even reveal a faulty component (hopefully not).
I think there might be some dirt and grime on the frame.
Also A MUST when doing this, specially to an older, unfamiliar gun is to buy the Wolff Springs adn replace the old ones. What a difference they make. Dont forget to keep the original parts you replace.
Hope this helps,
Rod
"The very atmosphere of firearms anywhere and everywhere restrains evil interference – they deserve a place of honor with all that's good" – George Washington
February 11, 2011
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Rod0990 said:
Dont be frustrated, I understand the feeling, and have been there myself with what I think is the EXACT same problem.
The trigger was getting stuck, it seemed randomly in both positions, pulled and in the normal position.
Some of the members here suggested a deep cleaning and theres an excellent guide here for it done by SHOOTIST37:
https://www.danwessonforum.com/?page_id=3/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/
I suggest cleaning it in great detail.
Also opening the frame up can be intimidating trust me but its well worth it, it might even reveal a faulty component (hopefully not).
I think there might be some dirt and grime on the frame.
Also A MUST when doing this, specially to an older, unfamiliar gun is to buy the Wolff Springs adn replace the old ones. What a difference they make. Dont forget to keep the original parts you replace.
Hope this helps,
Rod
Good advice; I am not competent to disassemble this piece. I know myself that well. I am resigned to sending it off somewhere to be healed and cleaned. Just don't know where.
October 26, 2010
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Honestly its really not that hard. I have never, ever worked with revolvers before...ever. When I opened it up as suggested by a member here I almost freaked out. The step by step directions on the guide tells you exactly where everything goes.
What I kept telling myself was "Well, this thing is broken, and will have to be sent to a gunsmith anyways, so if for whatever reason I cant put it back together, it will have to go to a gunsmith anyways."
I guess if youre unconfortable then you shouldnt do it.
Wish you luck, I know what its like to have a piece (specially when it was my only gun at the time) out of commission.
Let us know how it turn out.
Rod
"The very atmosphere of firearms anywhere and everywhere restrains evil interference – they deserve a place of honor with all that's good" – George Washington
February 11, 2011
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I can break an anvil with a banana.
May 17, 2010
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More than likely a good cleaning as Rod said will do the trick. However, theres some simple cleaning and settings that should be easy enough. The first thing I do is to use the barrel tool to remove the shroud and barrel and clean it that way, then re-assemble making sure to set the gap correctly ( .006"). The cylinder face can get cruded over and stop it from turning. Also if it dry fires fine, then make sure any built up crude on the back of the cylinder is removed ( i use a dental pick from Harbor Freight). This can cause the case rims to stick and drag along the back of the frame. Lots of light and solvent.. just might be the trick.
the cylider rides on a bushing on the crane near the latch, this can get very gummy and makes the gun difficult to operate. Clean that area well.
We all know our limitations. I have removed the side plate from my guns many times and have removed the hand ( doodad that pushes up on the cylinder) and remove the crane ( VERY easy). But thats all I can muster myself. The spring on the hand slips into a groove that is along the side of the hand... it sounds like it might have slipped out.
Good luck and let us know!
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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trust me--you can do it... What do you mean it fails to cock (details).
SHOOT
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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If you are saying that the gun cycles and operates correctly in dryfire (both single and double action), especially repeatedly for 10-12 firings, and will not operate or cock with ammunition, I'd guess that the issue may be with the cylinder binding. Check cylinder cleanliness, possibly under the extractor, the frame at the rear of the cylinder, barrel gap. You can also remove the sideplate to clean and lubricate very easily without removing any parts. You will be amazed at how much this improves the function of a 30+ year old revolver.
Good Luck.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
February 11, 2011
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Oh me of little faith. Problem solved! It appears I had left too small of a gap between the barrel and the cylinder and, as one or more of you surmised, it was interfering with free rotation of the cylinder. I also disassembled to the point of removing the sideplate, applied liberal quantities of solvent and lightly lubricated it overnight. I put it back together again this morning, and went off to the range. It shot like a champ! Sweet and smooth. After 40 rounds, it got just a little difficult on the extraction but I guess that is normal with expansion and heat. At any rate, my Model 15-2 is on active duty now in the house. Thanks for the virtual handholding....
October 26, 2010
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Awesome!!!!
Glad to know all is ok.
Now that youve removed the side plate I bet youre less intimidated and the more familiar you get the easier it will be to clean and service it yourself.
Also dont forget (I hope you didnt) to absolutely make sure that the cylinder stopper thingy (dont know the name for it 
) is in place when you place the side plate back on, just make sure its in place and gently refit the sideplate back in. I know this because several times I removed the side plate and the simple gentle knocking to get the side plate off knocked this thing off its place.
Heres a pic to show you the piece:
[Image Can Not Be Found]
Rod
"The very atmosphere of firearms anywhere and everywhere restrains evil interference – they deserve a place of honor with all that's good" – George Washington
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Glad everything is OK. DW cylinders are not true and square in many cases. Identify the "tightest" chamber, and gap to that one. in most cases you can gap to.002 on the tightest one and never have a problem again.
Clean It, Lube It, Gap It, and it shoots like a dream.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
October 26, 2010
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Steve CT said:
Clean It, Lube It, Gap It, and it shoots like a dream.
Words to live by 
.
Rod
"The very atmosphere of firearms anywhere and everywhere restrains evil interference – they deserve a place of honor with all that's good" – George Washington
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