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Question about model D11
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willism
Edmonds, WA
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July 13, 2013 - 12:18 am
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I recently picked up a model D11 .357 magnum at auction. It looked good and seemed to function properly but I partially disassembled it, removing the side plate for an inspection. It seemed in good order so I buttoned it back up. I gave it a good cleaning and set the cylinder gap using the feeler gauge, re-checking it after the barrel nut was snugged down. I also made certain the bolt was locking the cylinder properly. Again everything seemed to function as it should.

I've had it to the range twice. The first time I was using MagTech and PCM partially jacketed flat-point 158 grain ammo. I fired 30 rounds of each. When I got home I cleaned and processed the brass and got it reloaded with Hornady 125 grain XTP, real softball loads of 10.5 grains of AA #5. I was back at the range today and the ammo seemed ok but there continued to be two problems.

1) A high percentage of the time after firing the empty cases could not be ejected. I think it was just one cylinder holding up the parade. Is there some reason this might be happening other than just more cleaning required? I'd fire two, sometimes three, 6-round groups then go to another gun to let the Dan cool.

2) At both sessions while firing I was getting hit in the face with some type of debris. (I'm in a pretty stock  modified Weaver stance so nothing kooky about the way I'm holding the piece.) I'm wondering if this is normal for the design or if it might indicate an alignment issue. 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

- Michael

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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July 13, 2013 - 7:08 am
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I would say a good cleaning will take care of the sticky cylinder, particularly if there is carbon buildup from shooting .38s rather than .357s.  You can also lightly polish- but I would do that as a last resort, not a matter of maintenance.

The flying debris is most likely powder escaping from the cylinder-barrel gap.  Try running the barrel down to .002-.004" on the highest chamber and that should improve.  If the wear on the forcing cone doesn't show an abnormality, this is likely your source of debris.  Often, folks say the revolver spits lead, but I've always found it to be powder and not lead.

Regards, Ron

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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Maxwell 'Arlen' Silver

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July 13, 2013 - 8:34 am
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Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.

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willism
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July 13, 2013 - 12:25 pm
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Ok, thank you both. I'll give the cylinder some additional treatment today. Yesterday I was giving it a coat of FireClean then hitting it with a brush, waiting a bit, then running patches through. It did seem there was a fair build-up of crud.

As to a faster burning powder I'd like to get my hands on some AA #2 but it's well nigh impossible. I was lucky to have scored an additional 1 pound canister of #5. But I'll keep looking. I do have some Nitro 100 and it doesn't get any quicker than that but there's no load data from AA on that one for the .357 so I'm reserving it for my 9mm.

 

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rwsem
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July 13, 2013 - 1:28 pm
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No. 5 is plenty fast enough.  I suspect barrel gap is a bit wide.  If the forcing cone looks normal and you want to confirm the issue is powder, put a towel a few inches away from the gap, on the side of the revolver, when you fire and see if it catches "the crud".  Examine it for jacket material or lead. 

Also- Before you head out to the range, unload the revolver, check to see that you've unloaded it and then verify that your second check was correct- it's DEFINITELY unloaded.  Shine a bright light between the back of the cylinder and the frame, where the firing pin is. Look down the barrel and check the alignment of the cylinder throat to the barrel.  Point the barrel in a safe direction (I know, it's unloaded...), dry fire the revolver and check that chamber.  Do this on all chambers so that you are confident there are no timing issues.  If you see a portion of the throat in the circumference of the barrel- take it to a competent (DW) gunsmith. 

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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willism
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July 13, 2013 - 9:02 pm
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I was thinking about how to verify the cylinder hadn't taken a knock and was slightly out of line. I did set the cylinder gap down to a very tight .005". I also gave it the 'look down the barrel (first making triple sure it's unloaded)' test and that seems fine. With the cylinder out, I give it a spin and can see no wobble.

Then the big uh-oh. I discovered the upper side plate screw was missing. I've only had the screw out at my desk but an extensive search brings no joy. I'll just have to hope either I find it or can find a replacement.

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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July 13, 2013 - 11:53 pm
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hmm- I remember the pork chop side screws are a bit different than the 15-2.  Someone will come along to tell you the size and then you can go to a hardware store, last resort.  

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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willism
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July 14, 2013 - 12:20 am
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I ordered a 3-48X1/4" from EKW. That looks to be right. I can't imagine what happened to the screw. When I take something apart the small parts all go into a small plastic cup. I recall not being very agressive in the tightening. I suppose it could have come out while I was at the range due to vibration from the recoil after nearly 100 rounds. I'll be there when they open tomorrow, magnet in hand. It's so small and black it might lie there on the lane shelf with no one noticing it. Pretty bizarre.

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brucertx
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July 14, 2013 - 1:38 am
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Don't feel bad Michael . There is a black hole located on or near my bench. I'm sure it is sucking up the odd screw, fastener, small part and the odd tool. Even my glasses seem to go AWOL from time to time. Come to think of it....... It must move from the bench to the washer because I seem to lose the odd sock.  mad

 

Actually, I now use a magnetized parts tray. If it's metal and magnetic, I don't lose it anymore. Try running a fairly strong magnet around on your bench and floor, you never know. (If you run across any of my socks....)

Good luck,

Bruce

To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:

if you find one...what's your plan?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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willism
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July 14, 2013 - 11:45 pm
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Hmmm..the socket cap screw is not 3-48 nor 4-40. Both are too small. Could it be metric? When I mic the thread size it comes out 0.123. Perhaps 3mm?

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rwsem
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July 15, 2013 - 6:54 am
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I'd take the stripped frame and side plate to a local HWS and find what fits.  It's not metric.  Kind of hard to measure holes accurately with a mic- better served using a pin gauge set and those don't work well for threaded holes.  I always use the Bohemian fit test; nope, that's not it....how about this one?

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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willism
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July 15, 2013 - 9:10 am
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Thanks. If it's not metric then that narrows the field to ANSI #5, either the 40 or the 44. After riding about 200 miles in search of a real hardware store, one that still actually has 'hardware', I realized that my local hobby shop would be a more likely place to search. I'll be back there this morning. Of course everything now comes in plastic packages so the Bohemian fit test has now gone the way of the dinosaur.

The other thing special about the screw is the socket cap head size is much smaller than standard however I can chuck up the screw in an electric hand drill and take it down with a file in a few minutes.

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rwsem
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July 15, 2013 - 9:15 am
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Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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willism
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July 15, 2013 - 6:15 pm
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It's official. They are 5-40s. I took the 1/2"+ side plate screw to a specialty store named Tacoma Screw Products in Seattle. The salesperson told me these odd sizes are favorites of the gun and sewing machine industry. In the gun industry the 6-48 is quite common as is the 3-48. With sewing machines, anyone up to tearing the wife's sewing machine apart to find out? No, I didn't think so. Courage is best leavened with common sense.

Anyway, these are standard socket head cap screws and the head is too large in diameter. That I can deal with using the drill and file method. The part I will have difficulty with is the height of the head. The original is .085" high while the replacement is .13". I may resort to having a machinist cut it down on a lathe as the material has to be removed from the thread side to ensure the socket remains. Also the socket is one size larger than the originals. It isn't a perfect solution but few things in life are.

- Michael

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brucertx
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July 15, 2013 - 6:42 pm
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Nice job and some good info. I'd give you a big gold star if I could. Just one thing, you said:

 

"It isn't a perfect solution but few things in life are."

 

I would have to say there is perfect solution to damn near anything:

 

Another Dan! big-grin

To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:

if you find one...what's your plan?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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lonwolf93
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July 15, 2013 - 6:56 pm
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brucertx said

 

I would have to say there is perfect solution to damn near anything:

 

Another Dan! big-grin

There ya go, you should buy another Dan to shoot while you are working on this one!

-Lonwolf

 

"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"

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willism
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July 16, 2013 - 11:42 am
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Well, gee, now that you mention it I did buy that 3-48X1/4" screw from EKW. That should justify purchasing another Dan, say a 15-2, right? Unfortunately it'll have to wait a few months. I've already blown this year's budget on guns, reloading equipment, and consumables.

 

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