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Question regarding rear movement of cylinder
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SIGWolf
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January 25, 2014 - 2:14 pm
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So, this is still in reference to the poor Norwich model 15 I bought on gunbroker.com. I'm trying to work off the feeling I was taken for a ride, but I also develop a soft heart for an orphan firearm.

There is a thread describing the issue I am experiencing and the steps I've taken to resolve it. Since replacing the latch spring I have not been able to get to the range for various reasons. So I don't know if that has solved the issue. 

In the mean time I've noticed something else. With the cylinder closed and latched, if I press on the side of the cylinder at the rear there is a significant degree of "play". I have a 15-2 and a 14-2 which are rock solid and a DW 22 with a very small degree of play.

So, the question is whether this play is normal? Does it vary with different guns? Might is cause the "unlatching" of the cylinder latch that I've experienced when shooting .357 magnum? What causes it? In each of the guns there is a bit of play in the crane hinge which attaches the crane to the frame (please forgive what I'm sure is the lack of accuracy in terminology). However, the amount of play in the crane hinge for the Norwich gun is more significant than that for the others.

I'm wondering if the cylinder detent spring or the "star" where is fits are worn and not locking the cylinder as they should. I'm feeling more and more like this is going to have to go to DW to be fixed.

https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/revolvers/dan-failed-at-the-range-need-some-diagnostic-assistance/

 

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Charger Fan
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January 28, 2014 - 10:19 am
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If the center hole in the star is worn, I imagine it could allow some lateral play. Compare that one to your other guns to determine if it's worn. Also, if there isn't enough spring pressure on the ball that presses against the star hole, that could also allow some movement.

If there's movement at the crane, that will require a trip back home to DW to remedy.

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glockanator
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January 28, 2014 - 11:51 am
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My brother is having problems with the cylinder on his model 15. What thread were you referring to? 

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Ole Dog
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January 28, 2014 - 2:05 pm
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SIG wolf, if you cock the hammer and hold the trigger back at the same time the noltshould engage the cylinder and there should be no side to side  movement of the cylinder.  It could be a worn bolt or more likely you need to replace the bolt plunger spring. Just my $.02.  It would be an inexpensive fix to try before send it to Dan Wesson.

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Blacktop
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January 29, 2014 - 12:15 am
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SIGWolf said 
With the cylinder closed and latched, if I press on the side of the cylinder at the rear there is a significant degree of "play". I have a 15-2 and a 14-2 which are rock solid and a DW 22 with a very small degree of play.

So, the question is whether this play is normal? Does it vary with different guns? Might is cause the "unlatching" of the cylinder latch that I've experienced when shooting .357 magnum?

I'm wondering if the cylinder detent spring or the "star" where is fits are worn and not locking the cylinder as 
 

 

If you use force all Dan Wesson's will have play in the rear of the cylinder because there is no lock

in the rear, Dan designed the lock up in the front of the cylinder where it is the most important.

You have two other models to compare too so you are able discern normal and excessive movement.

 

See the dent in the middle of star ? see the silver ball sticking out of the frame below firing pin hole ?

Does it push in easy ? easier than your other two Dans ? Cock your hammer and look behind the

transfer bar, there is a screw there that puts spring tension on that detent ball that sets in that

dent in the star. You need to get in there and turn that screw behind the transfer bar clockwise

a full turn or two or take out the spring and see if it's crushed or broken. Eric's spring kits come

with new spring and detent ball.

 

Now, your latch comes open problem, take a grease pen or something that you can mark with but will

clean off. Unlatch your cylinder, open cylinder out, release latch, mark latch "height" some where so

you can reference position, now close up the cylinder, did the latch go up to the same "height" ?

 

Yes, it went up all the way or pretty close, then replace spring in latch, included in same

spring kit Eric sells.

 

No, It is lower ? if it is lower and it's not going all the way up in the cut out,(I've had two like that), easy

fix, take your time and file/fit the outside latch tip. You ain't gonna screw it up but if you did that latch

is only $20 from DW which is a heck of a lot cheaper than shipping the gun in for repair.

 

goodluck

-Blacktop

 

+DW.jpg

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Ole Dog
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January 30, 2014 - 4:38 pm
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Great info to know Blacktop, thanks. I don't have a problem but my next dan might.

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ese927
SHELBYVILLE, KENTUCKY
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April 28, 2014 - 10:49 am
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Sounds like a weak or mal-adjusted cyl. alignment ball spring.  possibly the balls detent in the ejector star is worn. but that means a serious amount of usage. this is where I'd start. that ball should have enough pressure that you can barely move it. see that the screw[located behind the disconnect] is set to flush on the frame. if it is and the ball still moves easily, I'd replace the spring. available from Numrichs or EWK has a kit.

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