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September 19, 2010
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I purchased a barrell wrench from EWK_Stuff. Very nice product. However, I removed my barrell from my model 15, and when I try to reinstall it, I cannot get the barrell to stop tightening as I tighten the barrell nut. This causes the barrell to cinch up to the cyclinder so tightly that I can't move the cylinder. Is there a trick to doing this?
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January 24, 2009
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Sounds like you may have some gunk in the threads of the barrel & nut. Spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner (or contact cleaner) on a rag. Grab the barrel threads tightly with the soaked rag & "unscrew" the barrel from the rag. If you can push the rag into the threads with a thumbnail, that will help clean the threads deeper.
The do the same with the nut.
Once you're done, spin the nut onto the barrel...it should spin on nice-n-freely.
Screw the barrel into the frame, slip the shroud on, squirt a little light gun oil onto the nut threads & screw it on. That should fix you up.
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Dans Club
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November 17, 2008
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Charger fixed you up but I thought I would add that some times I have to do this. After setting the proper gap I open the cylinder and hold my thumb against the end of the barrel while tightening the nut to prevent the barrel from turning, then checking the gap again after it is tight.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 9, 2009
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I have had this issue on several guns as well, it usually has involved polishing the threads on the nut end of the barrell to remedy it.
SMF
A man cannot have too many SuperMags
September 19, 2010
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Thank you guys. I will try cleaning up the threads. Maybe a dab of anti-seize will help for the future?
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February 28, 2009
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Nah, you don't want anti-seize on those threads. Just get 'em clean and keep 'em clean. When I have a barrel that starts doing that, I just soak both the barrel and the nut in a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Then clean it off (bronze brush followed by a clean rag) and apply light oil and all is well again.
-Mike
September 19, 2010
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zoommb said:
Nah, you don't want anti-seize on those threads. Just get 'em clean and keep 'em clean. When I have a barrel that starts doing that, I just soak both the barrel and the nut in a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Then clean it off (bronze brush followed by a clean rag) and apply light oil and all is well again.
-Mike
Good advice. Thanks!
February 2, 2009
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I've done all the above with my supermag and I ended up doing what lbruce did and set gap and open then hold on barrel as I tighten. I have several barrels and the problem on mine is only with the 10" barrel, which I use the least anyway.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Lot's of good advice here. Do everything you can to have less friction/resistance at the barrel end than the frame end, but when nothing else works, the LB method does.
We're still working with early 70's technology here, back when we still had condensers and distributor points inside the cap (oh, the good old days!), and an LCD display was cutting edge.
Old School Still Works!
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
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January 24, 2009
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Steve CT said:
We're still working with early 70's technology here, back when we still had condensers and distributor points inside the cap (oh, the good old days!)...
I still have two vehicles that run on the 'good old days' technology...okay, I must confess, only one actually runs at the moment.
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February 28, 2009
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Charger Fan said:
I still have two vehicles that run on the 'good old days' technology...okay, I must confess, only one actually runs at the moment.
I have one too that actually runs despite the fact that it's British and has Lucas Electrics.
-Mike
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