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Red locktight on front sight? Any hope?
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SIGWolf
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November 26, 2013 - 8:11 pm
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Bought a nice Dan 44. Previous owner used red locktight on the front blade sight. I can remove the screw but not the blade. Seems like an idiot thing to do, but there it is! 

Any suggestions? I understand the red stuff is permanent!

"Life does not have to be perfect, just lived".

"Deserves got nothin' to do with it".

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Ole Dog
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November 26, 2013 - 8:22 pm
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Nothing is permanent. Even the continents will slide into the mantel. If you don't care to save the sight I think you could get it out

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SIGWolf
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November 26, 2013 - 8:23 pm
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"Life does not have to be perfect, just lived".

"Deserves got nothin' to do with it".

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DakotaJack
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November 26, 2013 - 8:28 pm
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You should be able to clamp a set of vice grips on the sight and yank it out.  You can put a piece of leather in the jaws to try to safe the sight. if you have a vice clamp the shroud in it between a couple blocks of wood and some leather or rubber around the shroud to hold it.

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SCORPIO
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November 26, 2013 - 8:41 pm
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Is this a blue gun or stainless?  You could maybe add a little heat to the procedure harly mentioned to soften the bond.   Try a hair dryer or heat gun, and don't go crazy,  you don't want to discolor the shroud.

Anything worth doing is worth doing well.

My father

If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.

My grandfather

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rwsem
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November 26, 2013 - 8:50 pm
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Red locktite generally requires quite a bit of heat to remove as it is a thermal set plastic.  I'd use a soldering iron applied to the lowest part of the front site to soften it. 

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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SIGWolf
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November 27, 2013 - 5:17 am
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SCORPIO said
Is this a blue gun or stainless?  You could maybe add a little heat to the procedure harly mentioned to soften the bond.   Try a hair dryer or heat gun, and don't go crazy,  you don't want to discolor the shroud.

The gun is blued. I had read about adding heat and damaging the shroud was my major concern. I did some googling and saw the process of heat but with a blow torch which I neither have nor would be inclined to use.

 

"Life does not have to be perfect, just lived".

"Deserves got nothin' to do with it".

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SIGWolf
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November 27, 2013 - 5:20 am
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rwsem said
Red locktite generally requires quite a bit of heat to remove as it is a thermal set plastic.  I'd use a soldering iron applied to the lowest part of the front site to soften it. 

I saw the heat process and read someone's recommendation for a soldering iron. I'll give that a try. I no longer have a vice since I sold my house (at least not a vice that would do any good for this process lol2). I'll give the soldering iron a try.

I also thought perhaps I could contact EKW Arms and see if he thought he could do it and send the shroud to him.

 

"Life does not have to be perfect, just lived".

"Deserves got nothin' to do with it".

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lbruce
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November 27, 2013 - 7:54 am
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How about a solvent? Does any one know if something like denatured alcohol or acetone will damage the blueing? Or maybe a bore solvent. If you can't do that, maybe hot water will heat it up enough to soften the loc-tite.  If it persists, as a last resort you might drive out the pin to allow it to come straight up without sliding forward. Good luck.

 

LB

Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.

                                                                                                                             

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SCORPIO
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November 27, 2013 - 8:24 am
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There is a solvent for polyurethane based adhesives(which are very hard to remove) called DEBOND also called KRYPTONITE. They come in an aresol can. I don't know how they react with bluing but they don't bother gelcoat. MEK may work too but don't know about the blue.

Anything worth doing is worth doing well.

My father

If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.

My grandfather

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SIGWolf
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November 27, 2013 - 8:36 am
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SCORPIO said
There is a solvent for polyurethane based adhesives(which are very hard to remove) called DEBOND also called KRYPTONITE. They come in an aresol can. I don't know how they react with bluing but they don't bother gelcoat. MEK may work too but don't know about the blue.

I've read about acetone which would be fine as long as it doesn't hurt the blueing.

What about heating the shroud in the oven? Would that affect the blueing?

"Life does not have to be perfect, just lived".

"Deserves got nothin' to do with it".

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mister callan
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November 27, 2013 - 8:38 am
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Matthew Quigley on handguns:

“I said I never had much use for one. Never said

I didn't know how to use it.”

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lonwolf93
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November 27, 2013 - 9:17 am
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I would try the soldering iron on the sight for heat, that sounds like a good safe one to try.

   Another possibility- screw the set screw in the front and tighten it in until you actually break the sight. Then you could pick the loose pieces out. I know it is possible to do (well at least on a sight without Loctite) because yes, the first time I changed a sight I was dumb enough to screw the set screw in tight enough to break the new sightyell Not sure if it could overcome the Loctite though.

   Also the thought of contacting EWK is a great one, he is an accomplished machinist/Dan Wesson enthusiast/craftsman, I am sure he could remove it safely.

-Lonwolf

"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"

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pops2
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November 27, 2013 - 12:53 pm
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the red locktite is a industrial grade locking liquid, to remove you will need heat. I would try the soldering iron and don't give up with just one try. redo and redo just incase the heat doesn't penetrate deep enough the first time each heating will degrade the locktite it will eventually powder it up. you will still have to force in out with some vice grips. Good luck!goodluckwow

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SHOOTIST357
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November 27, 2013 - 3:34 pm
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I deal with red Loc-tite all the time on used guns... painful to say the least, especially on 6-40 threads...

In my opinion the easiest way is to clamp the front sight in a small c clamp, vise grips, etc.  You then use a propane torch to heat the CLAMP as hot as you can.  The front sight/shroud will act as a heat sink and draw the heat through the sight/loc-tite.  This is a safe method as no direct heat ever hits the shroud.

SHOOT

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SIGWolf
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November 27, 2013 - 3:52 pm
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SHOOTIST357 said
I deal with red Loc-tite all the time on used guns... painful to say the least, especially on 6-40 threads...

In my opinion the easiest way is to clamp the front sight in a small c clamp, vise grips, etc.  You then use a propane torch to heat the CLAMP as hot as you can.  The front sight/shroud will act as a heat sink and draw the heat through the sight/loc-tite.  This is a safe method as no direct heat ever hits the shroud.

SHOOT

Don't have a propane torch and have never used one. So, I'll probably try the soldering iron. I've contacted EWK. We'll see what he has to say.

"Life does not have to be perfect, just lived".

"Deserves got nothin' to do with it".

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pistolero
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November 27, 2013 - 5:41 pm
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On the positive side you just have 2 pieces of metal sitting next to each other with adhesive between.  That is much better than if it was a threaded connection under torque!  I have had good luck breaking red loctite using penetrating oil and time.  My oil of choice on this is Kroil at the moment.  Just be patient and don't damage the parts by getting over eager.  Soak it over night and if you can't break it loose put it back in the soak for another day.  Eventually you will work it free!

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SIGWolf
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November 28, 2013 - 8:02 am
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pistolero said
On the positive side you just have 2 pieces of metal sitting next to each other with adhesive between.  That is much better than if it was a threaded connection under torque!  I have had good luck breaking red loctite using penetrating oil and time.  My oil of choice on this is Kroil at the moment.  Just be patient and don't damage the parts by getting over eager.  Soak it over night and if you can't break it loose put it back in the soak for another day.  Eventually you will work it free!

I have some Kroil! I assume the Kroil will not hurt the blueing? I was thinking that it was at least a good thing that it was not a threaded connection but wasn't sure how the red stuff bonded.

If the Kroil will not hurt the blueing that sounds like a workable solution. I could remove the retaining screw and shoot some into the hole to get underneath the sight as well or stick it in to soak. I have kroil in a spray.

 

"Life does not have to be perfect, just lived".

"Deserves got nothin' to do with it".

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pistolero
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November 28, 2013 - 9:33 am
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Kroil won't harm the blue.  I would submerge the sight in the oil if possible to maximise surface area impacted but a good soaking spray should be good.  It probably won't come free on the first try - just keep worrying it.  Heat will definitely help but as noted above that requires some care to avoid bluing damage.

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SIGWolf
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November 29, 2013 - 10:55 am
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pistolero said
Kroil won't harm the blue.  I would submerge the sight in the oil if possible to maximise surface area impacted but a good soaking spray should be good.  It probably won't come free on the first try - just keep worrying it.  Heat will definitely help but as noted above that requires some care to avoid bluing damage.

Thanks! Thanks to all who have contributed to the thread! I appreciate the breath and depth of experience.

 

"Life does not have to be perfect, just lived".

"Deserves got nothin' to do with it".

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