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April 4, 2020
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Had a friend give me a DW .357. It hasn't been shot in a long time. It was covered with light rust inside and out, cylinder wouldn't spin at all, among other issues. I figured I was stuck with a paperweight. My 17 year-old son took interest in the gun. He cleaned it up a bit and really wants to get it operable. I don't know much about the gun at all. Based on the research I've done here, I believe its a Model 15 4 inch barrel VH.
Problem is, when he took it apart, the part that inserts into the cylinder and is attached to the assembly that releases the cylinder was totally rusted inside the cylinder and he could not remove it the part from the cylinder (not the pin/spring) (part #26 on the diagram). Being a 17 year-old kid, he tried to force it and it broke off inside the cylinder. I was able to carefully drill it out but there's no question I need a new part (I don't think I ruined the cylinder but who knows). I'm attaching a photo of the part to be replaced. I can only find it online being sold with the cylinder for about $200.
My question, is it worth spending the money to fix the gun? It would be pretty cool if he got it working. I appreciate all comments.
June 8, 2009
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It would be worth it to fix for me! So, did you remove all the blue? That thing is going to rust before your eyes.
CZ should be able to send you the part you need (yoke?), but I'd pony up the $ and send the gun to them to fit the part (and check for other problems) AND reblue. For me the most rust prone parts are the barrels. There's a recent thread on this site about them doing the blue work.
August 8, 2016
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LeonardC said
It would be worth it to fix for me! So, did you remove all the blue? That thing is going to rust before your eyes.CZ should be able to send you the part you need (yoke?), but I'd pony up the $ and send the gun to them to fit the part (and check for other problems) AND reblue. For me the most rust prone parts are the barrels. There's a recent thread on this site about them doing the blue work.
Agreed. Send an email with pics to Bob@cz-usa.com. He’s the revolversmith at DW.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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I'm the opposite; sending it to someone else would be a last resort measure. I like the fact you and your son are interested in this DIY project. I'd drop the gun in a bucket of ATF (anti rust/ corrosive properties) for a few days/ week and then see what you can do about taking things apart and cleaning them up. Once you've done that, make a list of parts you think you need and start working the internet. There are a few on this forum that have small parts available. Good luck/ have fun! Be sure to check out the Average Joe Tuneup topic.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
April 4, 2020
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Thanks folks. Being a rookie, I don't want to ruin the gun if we can get it operable. I'll let you know how it goes.
May 3, 2011
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rwsem said
I'm the opposite; sending it to someone else would be a last resort measure. I like the fact you and your son are interested in this DIY project. I'd drop the gun in a bucket of ATF (anti rust/ corrosive properties) for a few days/ week and then see what you can do about taking things apart and cleaning them up. Once you've done that, make a list of parts you think you need and start working the internet. There are a few on this forum that have small parts available. Good luck/ have fun! Be sure to check out the Average Joe Tuneup topic.
That is a nice DW. It would cost about 450.00 to re blue the whole gun. The part you want is a little expensive. I get the feeling you will have about 700.00 in it when you are done. If it were me. I would buy a used frame for 300.00. Use the shroud and the barrel if they are ok. You could parkerize the whole pistol. That would cost about 350 if you did it yourself. I would use a dremel tool and polish every part. Get it working well. This is an excellent pistol. You dont have to worry about scuffing it up. We baby the DW pistols with the rich bluing. I might just cold blue it for 45.00. That way I could use it in any enviroment. They shoot great. Gun Broker, and Guns America sometimes have various parts for the DW pistols. Good luck.
August 20, 2019
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While your gun is soaking, read the Average Joe tuneup link posted above and order yourself a barrel wrench. Learn what you can online before you dive into it and you'll have less chance of having a problem. The DW revolvers were made to be easy for the owner to service himself/herself unlike most other brands. If you haven't cold blued a gun before this one would be a good candidate. It's easy and you can get good results. The gun isn't worth spending $700 on.(IMO) You can probably do everything yourself, learn a lot along the way and have the satisfaction of having gotten the gun back in shape. What a good father/son project! Parts are available at pretty reasonable prices. Good luck and look forward to seeing how you progress.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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A lot of the rust can be removed with Flitz polish. Take as much apart as possible. The cylinder looks in good shape. The bushing you need can probably be obtained from DW. Member Snake eye may have some. Look at a schematic and identify the parts you need and some of us may have them.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Marty,
It looks like the crane is your broken part. I have these parts:
The crane at the top of the photo looks most like yours. It uses a pin to retain the latch. I also have most of the internal parts for the 15-2.
PM me if you are interested.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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That Snake-eye is a swell guy
April 4, 2020
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Thanks snake-eye. I found the part online and and my son is cleaning it up. As I said, the gun was in rough shape. He has it all back together but the cylinder isn't turning on a dry fire and the hammer doesn't always cock. Thoughts anyone?
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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The hand isn't turning the cylinder. You may need to reconnect the hand spring or use a new one. Snake-eye has them. Probably best to replace all the springs. As far as the gun not clocking, it may be that the grip screw is screwed in too far. Will it cock without the grip on? If so, it is the grip screw. If it is not the grip screw it could be the trigger return spring is dislodged.
April 4, 2020
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UPDATE:
So far so good. The cylinder issue was our fault. Didn't reinstall springs correctly. Works fine.
Next step is the thorough clean/de-rust. The barrel wrench just got here and the shroud is off. Nut was tough and corroded but got it off. We can't unscrew the barrel due to corrosion. Questions:
1. Can we put the frame and barrel into the ATF together?
2. Should we put all parts but for the springs and grip into the ATF?
3. What is the best way to remove the barrel if it's still corroded after soaking?
4. Can we blue after ATF soaking?
5. How long should we soak?
6. What all should be blued?
We're getting close and a little excited. I appreciate everyone's help.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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1. Yes!
2. Yes!
3. Soak some more. Heat & Cool. Soak in Kroil. Heat & cool. Wrap barrel or use rubber inserts for vise, clamp barrel and work frame carefully back & forth to loosen barrel.
4. Yes, but you will still have to follow preparation instructions which will remove all vestiges of ATF etc.
5. As long as it takes - a day or 2 or 3 or more, is not too much.
6. All but the grip and detent ball.
April 4, 2020
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One more question. After soaking for a few days, how do we clean the ATF off the parts and inside the barrel?
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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"Gun Scrubber" spray by Birchwood Casey; or, Remington has a similar product. It's like brake cleen, it cleans and dries without residue. Of course, you will have to check instructions for the type of blue process you are using. This is just a start.
Good luck!
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Snake Eye is spot on. I use gumout carb cleaner but you can't leave the gun out too long after that- all the oils are removed and rust (which is really what bluing is) will start to form, particularly in humid environments. So be ready to do whatever you're going to do after you de-grease! Take lots of pics along the way and post as you go...
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
October 30, 2019
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great thread here , can't wait to see the finished project.
August 8, 2016
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rwsem said
Snake Eye is spot on. I use gumout carb cleaner but you can't leave the gun out too long after that- all the oils are removed and rust (which is really what bluing is) will start to form, particularly in humid environments. So be ready to do whatever you're going to do after you de-grease! Take lots of pics along the way and post as you go...
Yes definitely make sure to lube generously after using carb cleaner or gun scrubber. I use gun scrubber followed by Hornady one shot gun cleaner + lube. That stuff is great. It leaves a dry film/lube afterwards and doesn't leave an oily sopping mess.
I burn through that Hornady stuff like crazy. Works so well.
keywords=hornady+one+shot&qid=1587238409&sr=8-2
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