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February 21, 2011
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At first I thought this was holster wear, but cleaning with a different solvent has taken the "silvering" from the front edge of the cylinder & schmeared a silver mess everywhere in the flutes. Not functionally bad but it looks like hell.
So How do I remove really, really stubborn lead schmears from the blued finish without harming the finish?
Â
Tried M-Pro-7, KG-12, Sweet's 7.62, & Hoppes. So far no luck.
May 3, 2011
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Do you have a  picture of the problem?
Range Officer
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Dans Club
March 27, 2009
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Yip picture and I bet someone on here will have an answer!Â
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May 2, 2009
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The lead smears are harder to remove from the flutes because the flutes are not as polished and hold the lead in place.
You may need to use a lead removal cloth with a soft touch, or a very mild abrasive such a 0000 steel wool.
I have one DW that is such a pain to clean, I leave the lead on the flutes.
SHOOT
February 21, 2011
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Gary J said:
Do you have a  picture of the problem?
No but I'll take one.
February 21, 2011
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OK here's the picture with the schmears outlined in red.
The original mark was on the edge of the cylinder & when scrubbing with a toothbrush & Sweets 7.62 some of it transferred into the flutes. Nothing else has even touched this stuff.
March 15, 2011
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mister callan said:
At first I thought this was holster wear, but cleaning with a different solvent has taken the "silvering" from the front edge of the cylinder & schmeared a silver mess everywhere in the flutes. Not functionally bad but it looks like hell.
So How do I remove really, really stubborn lead schmears from the blued finish without harming the finish?
Â
Tried M-Pro-7, KG-12, Sweet's 7.62, & Hoppes. So far no luck.
Hi:
I won't comment on how to clean up on the aftermath seeing you have replies on this one. However, the lead "smear" probably was due to high temperature lead splatter from the rounds being expelled by the hot gasses during the round ignition. I used to have this problem with a Desert Eagle shooting lead 357 magnum SWCs complete with lead buildup at the end of the frame underneath the gas port. You may want to try a preemptive fix next time you shoot. Try coating your cylinder and other parts with Teflon lube/cleaner. The theory is the Teflong won't allow the lead to stick and instead, slide off. Hopefully the gases won't push away the lube and you'll minimize leading as you have now. DW41F. 
December 26, 2010
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Interesting lines!? Â The buildup I get is more of a "fog" or dirt spot. Â What has worked best for me is to get some solvent on it as soon as I'm done shooting. Â I've been using up my Break Free CLP on it. Â (I don't think there is anything special about CLP. Â I'm just using it up.) Â I leave it on until I get home. Â It's usually an hour before I start the real cleaning. Â I put some Hoppes No. 9 or Shooter's Choice solvent on a patch and rub with it some finger pressure. Â Even then it doesn't come real easy but it does come off. Â Until I learned to put it on while the gun is still warm, I would have to leave the solvent on overnight. Â On occasion, I've used my fingernail on the patch to get the real stubborn residue off. Â HTH.
February 21, 2011
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I think the lines are from the gun cleaning toothbrush bristles somehow dragging & depositing the lead.
The marks in the flutes only appeared after (actually whilst) I cleaned the cylinder face, the ones on the edge of the cylinder happened during firing.
Dans Club
October 26, 2008
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May 17, 2010
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I have th same problem.. though I assumed it was blueing being diminished on the cylinder face. I do not have any on the flutes themselves.
February 21, 2011
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That was exactly what I thought till it moved during cleaning. Sweets 7.62 & a brush seems to dislodge the stuff, but it just redeposits elsewhere. Maybe I need to use a lot more Sweets so it can't get a hold & re deposit.
May 17, 2010
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By the way, the cylinder is VERY easy to remove from the gun. Perhaps a good soak in something? ATF fluid?
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