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Sticking Cylinder cure
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Pete_R
Atlanta
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June 17, 2024 - 4:54 pm
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When I bought my 15-2 a few weeks ago the cylinder gap was huge - .015 - but it shot fine. Maybe a bit of flame out of the gap :-).  I turned it down to .006 and it would jam after almost every shot. The cylinder would bind and not move forward or back, and opening it took some doing. I opened the gap to .01 and it shot but still would bind once or twice per cylinder.

I finally opened the side plate to find the hand missing. Actually, it was stuck to the side plate. There was no lube, just stickiness from whatever had been put on there umpteen years ago. Cleaned it all out, lubed it properly, and now it is shooting the way it is supposed to!

Apparently the hand would stick when it move the cylinder causing the jam. If anything else crops up I'll post.

 

Pete

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snake-eye
Fort Myers, Florida
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KurtB
Pleasant Plains, Illinois
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June 17, 2024 - 5:43 pm
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My blued version 22LR is giving me trouble once in awhile too.  I’ve checked gap to be spot on so it looks like I should open it up and see what’s going on inside.  Thanks for the info!

DW-15-2VH15-7-Barrel-Super-Pac.jpeg

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lonwolf93
Lancaster Pa
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June 17, 2024 - 6:38 pm
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Good find, Pete. Many malfunctions and odd occurrences can sometimes be remedied with a good internal cleaning and lube. Also One suggestion I have for lubing, just from my personal experience, on the internals of Dan Wesson revolvers, less lube is best. With too much lube I have seen the hand actually stick to the side plate by cohesion and not work properly.  

"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"

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Ole Dog
ocala, fl

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June 17, 2024 - 10:33 pm
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Yes, modest lube! And don't polish the internals slick. That promotes surface tension when lubed. Sometimes things just don't work right no matter what you do. If that is the case, make sure the frame pins on the left side of the frame are fully seated. If not seated even a 64th of an inch bad things happen. 

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