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Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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This pistol is a recent purchase. Of course, in my excitement I forgot to check the barrel nut during my inspection at the time of xfer at my FFL and that has now come to bite me.
I have read every thread on DWF related to stuck barrel nuts. And even some threads on other sites to get as much knowledge as possible for this repair. I want to fix it without damage, if possible. What makes this an even more challenging situation is someone prior to me has already boogered up the notches in the barrel nut. They are ramped.
Unfortunately, EWK (Erik) is currently out of stock on the small frame socket barrel wrench tool, but Snake Eye was kind enough to mail me his.
First, I soaked the barrel nut for days with Ballistol. Then, I heat cycled the barrel nut several times to help break it free before trying to use the wrench. After several heat cycles using my hot air gun, I then used a 5/16” all-thread rod (protectively wrapped with blue tape so as not damage the barrel) to clamp the tool down to the barrel nut. I went slowly, iteratively adjusting how hard to clamp the wrench against the barrel nut. I used nylon washers against the barrel bore and between the barrel tool and metal washers over the nylon. Each iteration, I only applied enough force to judge how the tool was performing. If it looked like the barrel tool was separating from the nut even the slightest, I tightened clamp force a little more.
After several attempts I had the tool clamped really tight…to the point the nylon washers were beginning to distort slightly. Even with this amount of clamp force, the barrel nut didn’t loosen and now the 2 nubs on the wrench are deformed. The ramps on the barrel nut no doubt caused the damage.
Needless to say, I certainly will be buying Snake Eye a new tool as soon as Erik has them back in stock (1-2 months). Sorry for ruining your wrench!
I posted this in hopes someone has an idea. Hopefully there’s something that can be done. Gonna ask Erik if he can do it, just in case he is able/willing. Or maybe Bob @ CZ can fix? Has anyone else sent their stuck barrel issue to Bob?
Thanks, Kurt
December 29, 2021
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I've had good luck with CRC Freeze-Off with stuff like this - also with using a tapping affect vs strength/torque. Could try shrinking it up a bit in the freezer if the metal can handle it, but not sure if that is safe for the piece or not.
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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You can put it in a padded vice, heat up the nut, and use a sharp punch tool that fits in the boogered slots and tap with a hammer counterclockwise. A lot of time the jarring effect helps in loosening. Just need a good hold on the punch so it doesn't jump off the nut and scar the shroud.
February 21, 2011
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Wild idea.
After the good soaking from breech & muzzle end with your preferred penetrating oil, Make a tool head from an appropriately sized socket. Basically file the sides away leaving a pair of "fingers".
Clamp the barrel & support the breech end with a vice & some leather to prevent marring.
Now use one of those old school impact drivers you whack with a hammer.
I've used this to remove really stubborn Lee Enfield firing pins & it essentially the same problem, a pin nut down inside a hole.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
October 17, 2017
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I’ve been in your shoes, my friend. The barrel nut is toast, so place the shroud in a padded vice and use a small punch that fits into what’s left of the slot and gently tap with a hammer until it moves. Be patient, and of course proceed with caution as to not mar the inside of the shroud. The barrel nut can easily be replaced.
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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Thanks everyone! If anyone else has ideas too, I’m all ears.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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It may have been red loctited. Some idiots have done that. Dans are THE THINKING MAN'S gun. Apparently setting the barrel gap is too difficult for some folk, usually Smith and Wesson owners.
The punch might work but if it is loctited you may have to heat it to the proper temperature to melt the loctited. I hope it isn't because you may not be able to get the stuff off the barrel tube. Or maybe you can. Moderator Ron may be able to tell you the temperature. I think it is in the vicinity of 350 degrees. Get oven mitts to handle the hot gun and put it in the oven, then try. I don't think that heat will affect the temper of the steel. Maybe another member knows more. Google the temp that red loctited gives way. If it is not loctited it still may expand the nut. I am grasping at straws, sending it to DW may be the best course.
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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I have used a heat gun to soften Locktite before but a butane or small torch will do it faster. 500' is what the manufacturer recommends. I would try the punch method first if it doesn't budge then you may have a red Loctite problem. I have done this method on MANY occasions on the automotive side.
August 8, 2016
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Aw f***. I would soak/submerge the muzzle in Kroil for a couple days then follow others advice.
But the fact that the fancy tool you used didn’t work has me concerned that thing is loctited.
Bob should be able to help. I think I’ve read some posts on the DW Facebook group about sending theirs to Bob with success. Keep us posted.
Dans Club
January 17, 2015
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I deal with red loctite on my Harley and before I break the nuts that do use it, I hit that nut for 5 long minutes with the heat gun on max; as mentioned, a torch works better but I can't always use a torch in some areas. Get hot, shock it with a hammer/punch would be how I would try to 'break' the hold on most objects, but that is a tight area there on the end of that shroud. I'm curious how you get this one done, so I'm staying tuned.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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I agree with the above; most likely someone used the wrong thread-lock. Heat and hammer time, unfortunately. Be careful!
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
August 8, 2016
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What about a soldering iron with a fine tip to just heat up the barrel and nut?
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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500 degrees? I don’t think I got the muzzle to 500 degrees, maybe 250-300 tops. I was being conservative. I got it hot enough to see the oil bubble/boil around the nut. When I saw that I thought I was hot enough.
The barrel nut area is tiny and I don’t trust myself to not mess up with a hammer and punch. I have a vice, but not one I’d put a firearm into and not expect it to come out mark free. I think I will contact Bob @ DW. Hopefully he can get it fixed.
Did I read on DWF recently that SHIPMYGUN.com is cheapest way to ship?
October 1, 2012
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Hi Kurt,
The soldering iron has always worked for me but you need to use a hi power one with a solid tip. They are usually sold with 3 different shaped tips that screw in. Use the rectangular tip as a basis and file it to match the slot in the barrel nut. I got mine at harbor freight I believe. This method puts almost all the heat on the nut, not the shroud and barrel. Use padded jaws on your vice...again bought at harbor freight and place the barrel in a vertical position. Apply Kroil and then go back and forth with the hot soldering iron from one slot to the other. When the Kroil smokes, add some more. Do this for about 15 minutes. Then with gloves on, use a good barrel wrench and put all your weight into it . Turn the wrench hard as you can . You may need the punch/hammer technique others have described since the nut is buggered up. You may need to elongate the nubs on the wrench by filing away some of the round base. This will insure as much "bite" as possible
Good luck
I know everyone has their favorite penetrating oil......mine is Kroil
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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Thanks for all the great advice! My soldering gun has multiple attachments and I used the one that fit the ramped notches in the nut best. Never thought to file the end! I wonder if my gun isn’t working as it should. It was definitely hot, but no heat went into the nut. I could touch the nut within seconds after removing the gun. I had it on there for at least a minute. I’d thought by that time it should at least be getting really warm.
I’m gonna contact Bob Collins tomorrow. I really don’t wanna mess up a beautiful 15” BA.
Dans Club
October 17, 2008
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At this point I would send it in, and Yes SHIPMYGUN.com is the cheapest way for a private party to ship a handgun I have used them several times.
February 22, 2017
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Here's the forum link where I was able to remove my frozen barrel nut. I soaked it in Liquid Wrench because it was what I had on-hand, & then used a barrel wrench from EWK along with a bar clamp. I think the wrench from EWK was a major component because I could use a crescent wrench with it.
Jerry
10 Dans and counting...
July 22, 2015
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Bob can fix it if anyone can. He fixed mine without damaging the shroud. Mine was on a 44 mag.large frame. Had to replace the barrel tube . Well worth it to get the Dan fixed.
cliff
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Replacing a 15" barrel tube may be a problem.
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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Tried shipping via FedEx tonight, they said company policy change a month ago…no more originating shipping firearms from FedEx. They will ship a firearm, but they will not generate a shipping label, instead the receiver has to get the label from them and send it to the person sending the firearm. That means I have to get Dan Wesson Firearms to send me a FedEx shipping label. I hope this made sense, but FedEx no longer will create a shipping label for an individual to ship a firearm.
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