Dans Club
February 24, 2013
Hopefully final update: Bob said because he had to booger the Bore AND the muzzle end of the barrel to get it off, it would require work on both ends to make a shorter viable barrel out of it. The cost to do that would mean less than 10” barrel (8”, 6”, 4”, 2.5”) & I can likely buy one for less than the cost to modify this 15” to a shorter one. As much as this sucks for me, I gotta say I’ve had a very good experience with Bob at DW. Stand up guy. Plus he saved my 15” shroud!!!
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
She’s back. Bob did a great job salvaging the shroud, looks exactly the same as before, no new marks anywhere. I also had him do a spring kit installation too, action and trigger feel great.
You can see the bore is cut/ground down and the muzzle end has the ez-out marks inside the barrel.
No way I’d have been able to get this thing apart myself. Bob’s comments on the return paperwork said “Had a squib ring in barrel- looks closer to 3 rings at 1”, 2” and 4”.”
Only charged me $175 total ($75 labor, $50 parts [spring kit & new barrel nut], $50 shipping).
November 5, 2010
I know a machinist that can duplicate that bad barrel. He has done most of the chambering and barrel work for a lot of the SOCOM calibers when they were being developed. He is retired, lost his FFL during the clinton years when they got rid of most of the "kitchen table" gunsmiths because he couldn't get his county to change his workshop behind his house to commercial zoning. Get a long enough 357 barrel blank(at least a couple inches longer than the length of barrel you want since ends on blanks can be bad), send it and your ruined barrel to paladin machine, and he will absolutely duplicate it cheaper than anyone else will ever do. He doesn't do bluing so you would have to have it blued yourself locally. 803-475-7542 is his number, Paladin Machine service in Kershaw SC. He has done work for me including suppressor mounts by duplicating the manufacturer's way cheaper than I could buy, making two barrel's out of a .22 match blank(one for a savage and one for an old worthless dpms dedicated 22 upper which is now a pistol upper and is no longer useless), and making a tool for my blackout reloading. All perfect and for unbelievable low prices. Shipping just the barrels is cheap and no restrictions. You can email him at
PM FOR INFO. Open posting of email addresses is against forum guidelines- thanks Ron
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
Awesome, thanks Karl!!! I’ve been texting with Scott at Lock, Stock & Barrel in Keymar, MD. He thinks he can do it no problem, but it’s hard to get a barrel blank (or a barrel liner) right now with correct twist rate (1:14). The extra 2” long barrel blank/liner is good to know too.
BTW, I never have shot that 15-2 pack I bought from you, but it’s getting love everyday. 😃
November 5, 2010
605Dart said
Have to add this to my list of needful info!
Key words in my post, since clinton years, he Has no FFL. You can't send him firearms, receivers, or anything the ATF considers a firearm as he can't have it on premises overnight. He is just about an hour and a half from me, and I couldn't get the barrel off my Savage 22. I drove there with the rifle. He tried without marring the barrel nut, with lots of heat too. Looked at me and said, for 20 dollars I'll make you a new barrel nut with flats so this is never a problem again. I said go for it and he marred the heck out of the stock barrel nut getting it off. Even at over 400 degrees, that stuff was barely softened at all. Some idiot at the factory had put enough locking compound on it for 10 rifles. The stuff they use is grayish/black and is tough stuff. Not the same as with their centerfire rifles they expect people to take the barrel off.
Kurt, what's wrong with a 1 in 16 barrel blank for 357?
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
KarlH said
Kurt, what's wrong with a 1 in 16 barrel blank for 357?
I’m no expert on these things. My research tells me when DW manufacturing moved to Norwich, DW listened to the silhouette shooters and changed their twist from 1:18.75 to 1:14 for 10”, 12” & 15” BAs to accommodate silhouette shooter requests so they could shoot a heavier bullet and stabilize it to accurately knock down steel rams at 200 yds. That’s the only reason I am targeting 1:14 twist. I’m not planning to shoot silhouette competitively, but thought it smart to follow OEM.
I’m all ears and I have lots to learn, please tell me your opinion. I’m open to everyone’s input at this point. No arguments tho plz. 😃 I want to learn so school me up!
November 5, 2010
That is entirely true, an 18.75 twist in a 357 revolver is way too slow for heavy long bullets, actually that is the slowest twist I've ever heard of in a 357 handgun. Silhouette shooting is a very specific game, anyone that is good at it shoots extremely heavy bullets. In 357 that generally means cast bullets over 180 grains. Specific to silhouette shooting, going all the way to 1 in 14 probably makes sense. I never got into silhouette even though a friend of mine was heavily into it in the early 80's. I did enjoy shooting at rams out at his farm, not as much as shooting his big NFA items though. You don't know fun till your shooting a quad 50 in an electric powered turret, yeah, he was stupid wealthy. He died instantly in the early 90's of a massive brain hemorrhage out at the farm bush hogging a field, only 40 something years old.
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
Sorry to hear about your friend dying so abruptly and still so young!
Thanks again for your experienced input, I think what will likely happen is it will depend on availability of barrel blanks/liners. Likely, whatever is available soonest will determine 1:14 or 1:16. At least I understand the advantage differences between the two twist rates now. Seems the 1:16 would fit my type of shooting better, but I don’t wanna wait 6 months to get one. Both would work for me.
September 28, 2008
I've only had two stuck nuts, both had red Loctite on them. On the first one, the nut was fine, and after a little torch action, it came off without much drama. The second was recently, and it was a real hassle. The nut was all chewed up from the previous owner's failed attempts to get it off. I broke the roll pin that sticks out of the frame of the gun, which allowed me to get the barrel out of the shroud. I have a ton of roll pins, so who cares? After a friend and I wrapped it up with tape and clamped it, we tried to get the nut loose. Nope. The heat gun I bought came out and after we saw the Loctite bubbling, we thought it would come off easily. Nope again. Looking closely, it appeared the nut was cross threaded. Oh boy. We finally decided to use the punch method and started punching away, and it just refused to move. And we chewed the nut up even more. I saw his welder sitting there and said, "You got any old junk sockets?". He had a big box of them and one 12 point metric just fit on the barrel nut. He welded it on and we put the ratchet on it, and it broke loose. The new nut went on OK, and I ran it up and down the barrel tube. The nut didn't tear the threads up on the muzzle too badly and I have a full underlugged 4" barrel assembly that looks rough, but shoots fine. I get so angry when I see a Loctited nut, there's no reason to do it!
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