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Stuck barrel (second try)
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Dutchmag
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February 27, 2011 - 6:54 am
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I lost my first topic somewere. Did very hard try writing in english......damn

 

Here we go again,

 

I have a Dan Wesson revolver 445Mag ss 8" for i think 19 years now. I have not been using it for a year or 3, i had no time and was using my rifles for some reason. So after i fired it for the third time after this period i tried to go clean it. And you al know what my surprice was.

 

For me new, for most of you a known problem. The barrel/nut is stuck. And after some tries an soaking the nut is now in a shape that i am running out of option.

 

The number of gunsmith's here is just like the number of wooden shoes in the US. So asking a smith is not an option. And when i haven one i am almost sure he never had an 445 mag in his hands before.

 

So I tried the digital way a find on this site.  https://www.danwessonforum.com/?page_id=60 

 

I Tried to do it like I read there. But the screwrod is breaking every time. I have to use lost of power to break it, so it is very stuck !

 

I also heatend up the place were the barrel is fitted in the frame, without succes.

 

Next problem is finding a new nut, a better wrench and a new front sight( my wife did not seen it......)

 

In Holland you can not by parts, shells, ammo. And with the new rules you can never buy handguns bigger than 9 mm. I mailt Eric for parts, but he can not take the risc sending it. And he is right about that. Anyway, i find a fix for that problem after I fixed this one.

 

So, does anyone have a better idea for me getting the barrel free?

 

Thanks.

 

ps, I do not have digital pictures of my shootingtoy's. I know you al like pic's.  I will work on that too. 🙂

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Charger Fan
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February 27, 2011 - 10:10 am
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I assume the factory plastic barrel wrench is what you are currently using? One of Eric's wrenches should help a lot with your problem, he should be able to ship you that, I would think. It's only a tool, after all.

It could be considered a spanner wrench for a bicycle swing arm nut, or something.laugh And heck, the new nut could be that bike's new swing arm nut!big-grin A new front sight probably couldn't be labeled a bike part, though.lol2

One of our members recently had good success with an EWK wrench & a C-clamp. There's the thread... LINK Post #15 describes what he did.

Also, one of our other members made a stronger tool from a broken factory plastic wrench, by welding the metal part to a larger handle, if I recall. I can't find that thread, though.broken-computer

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Dutchmag
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February 27, 2011 - 1:07 pm
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Somthing is rotten. 5 times a reply gone in english is bad for the tikker.

Using firefox now IE9 su....

 

Anyway, the forumboard does not save my posting.

 

A translate the thread you give. Snugged (funny word) and googled for c clamp. Need a bigger clamp for that tric. Going to try that for sure.

 

Send Eric an E mail mabey he find the bikeparts in his barn. rofl

 

Going to upload pics and past them here. I know. post-pics

 

(Now making copie from this, never know if it works now.)

 

Dutchmag.

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Dutchmag
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February 27, 2011 - 1:45 pm
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whippingHere is the workshop. The patient is in the center.

Image Enlarger

 

The patient.

[Image Can Not Be Found]

 

The nut, the nut, the nut. mad

[Image Can Not Be Found]

 

Close up.

[Image Can Not Be Found]

 

The rest of the family.

[Image Can Not Be Found]

 

ANSCHÜTZ  .22

 

[Image Can Not Be Found]

 

Endfield .303 br

[Image Can Not Be Found]

 

schmidt rubin (swiss) 7.5x55 karabin.

[Image Can Not Be Found]

 

And ofcorse, another US shooter. TRW M14  .308

 

[Image Can Not Be Found]

 

Hope I pleased the piclovers this way.

 

I can not see the pics in IE9. In firefox the layout of this site is not good. Hope it's not a mess on your screens.

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Pinetor
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February 27, 2011 - 3:19 pm
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Welcome Dutchmag!, that is a handsome gun you have, plus many more long guns. Very nice collection!

 

I too have had stuck barrel nuts.. and I have succesfully used the the threaded rod method. However... it is very important to use very hard, high grade threaded rods. The threaded rod at most hardware stores is not hard enough. You need to use grade 8 hardness threaded rod.  I had to take time out from work to go to a construction supply depot to get mine. 

It is also very important to use the bench vise to hold the gun, otherwise the gun gets angled and causes the rod to break sooner. 

I also soaked the gun in a good penetrating oil for about 3 days first. lastly, I did use a propane torch to heat the shroud while I was turning the rod. 

Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box

in that order.

4 Monson Model 15's

1 Palmer FB 15

1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)

1 CZ 75B

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Dutchmag
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February 27, 2011 - 3:59 pm
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IE9 did it again. aaaaghhh ( trying firefox again)

 

 

Thanks for reply. Going to hardwarestore tomorrow and ask for better stuff, and a c-clamp to hold the wrench in the nut.  Will give it a try tomorrow with 2 options. Ordered a bench vise yesterday. Used some kind of c-clamp to hold it now, worked well. But in upright position is better handeling.

 

Going to do some paperwork now for 30 minutes. After that to bed. It is bedtime for me here om other side of the water. big-grin

 

Dutchmag

 

ps, writing in english is going better by the minute. lol

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lbruce
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February 27, 2011 - 4:29 pm
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Hey guys I just had an crazy idea. Might not help Dutchmag but it could work for us on this side of the pond. Instead of using the C clamp to hold the barrel wrench in place what if we replaced the threaded guide on EWK's wrench with the threaded rod. Wrap the rod with tape to protect the bore and washer and nut the forcing cone. No way the wrench can back out like that. Once the stuck nut is loosened, convert back to the regular way. Just a thought, what do y'all think.

LB

Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.

                                                                                                                             

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pops2
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February 27, 2011 - 4:53 pm
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sounds like a good option, only have to match the thread on Eric's tool maybe even a small bushing to keep centered on both ends for protection.occasion

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zoommb
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February 27, 2011 - 5:09 pm
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lbruce said:

Hey guys I just had an crazy idea. Might not help Dutchmag but it could work for us on this side of the pond. Instead of using the C clamp to hold the barrel wrench in place what if we replaced the threaded guide on EWK's wrench with the threaded rod. Wrap the rod with tape to protect the bore and washer and nut the forcing cone. No way the wrench can back out like that. Once the stuck nut is loosened, convert back to the regular way. Just a thought, what do y'all think.

LB


Lawrence:

 

That is just plain brilliant!  

 

-Mike

D2X_0011_x_sm.jpg

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Dave_Ks
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February 27, 2011 - 9:54 pm
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Ditch keep us informed and hope things relax on your side!  I will check my bike parts for the sight shim!!!!   Just might work! I havent had this problem stuck nut (that I couldnt break loose) 

 

Good Luck

Very cool pics.   it all looks good on this end!  Your english is up there with the best!

 

welcomecool-picspoke

DSCN1339.jpg

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EWK_Stuff
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February 27, 2011 - 10:34 pm
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Dutchmag, Wow, those pictures are awesome!!!! Wow, just wow! That is totally cool on the TRW M14! How did that ever find its way over to you???!!!

Not to mention you have a totally cool Dan Wesson too!

 

LB, that is indeed a stroke of genius to use the EWK wrench with a piece of all thread!!! The thread is 3/8"-16

Only in the hardware stores in Holland, I bet the all thread is likely all metric??!!!

Eric

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SHOOTIST357
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February 27, 2011 - 10:41 pm
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I use a method similiar to the mode you are describing-- I use a chunk of aluminum arrow shaft to protect the bore --perfect fit for 357...

I have a wrench minus the center with a solid steel rod through it--ends are threaded.

I think the mod for an EWK wrench is a great idea.

SHOOT

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jayd
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February 27, 2011 - 10:43 pm
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I’ve been removing rusted bolts and screws from classic and antique cars for years by impacting the fastener. Striking a fastener in the opposite direction of tension will almost always relieve a seized fastener. This technique is most effective when a counter clockwise force is applied to the fastener while impacting in the opposite direction of tension.

The barrel nut offers a more challenging situation but the same principles apply.

Since the barrel nut is pulling on the barrel striking the nut in the opposite direction of the tension should help to loosen the barrel nut (See Image).

You will need a barrel wrench like the ones from EWK, a socket that matches the barrel nut diameter but clears the barrel diameter/shroud, and possibly a pair of needle nose pliers.

If the nut will not loosen try these steps before damaging the nut slots.

Note: Clamp the pistol securely in a vice.

1. Use a socket that is the same diameter as the barrel nut and while holding the socket securely against the face of the barrel nut strike it lightly with a hammer, make sure that the socket clears the barrel/shroud diameter. Use the wrench to see if the nut will loosen, if the nut has not loosened repeat the socket impaction or go to step 2.

2. Use a barrel wrench like from EWK and hold it securely against the barrel nut and while applying counter clockwise force lightly tap the end of the wrench with a hammer. Repeat steps 1 and 2, if this does not work you can try step 3. Check the fit before using the wrench, impaction with lug contact only could burr the threads. Be sure that the wrench is not touching the barrel threads before tapping with a hammer.

3. In some cases you may need to apply more force, grind or file a pair of needle nose pliers tips so that they fit tightly into the barrel nut slots then use a Crescent wrench or a pair of Vice grips to clamp to the pliers frame. Hold the pliers firmly against the barrel nut and use the wrench to loosen the nut.

It's important that an impaction be applied evenly across the face of the barrel nut. In some cases the wrench may seat against the face and a socket would not be necessary. Check the fit before using the wrench, impaction with lug contact only could burr the threads.

I have a 3/8" drive 1/2" Craftsman thin wall socket that fits perfectly, it may be necessary to remove some material to get a good fit.

It's possible to grind the end of a socket using a Die grinder and a cutoff wheel to make a wrench. Care must be taken when grinding or you could mess up the sockets heat treating, just take it slowly cooling it in water occasionally.

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jayd
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February 28, 2011 - 2:12 am
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I forgot to mention that the impaction technique can be used to remove stubborn screws anywhere on the pistol. You can use a pair of Vice grips to tightly clamp an Allen wrench, just tap on the wrench while applying counter clockwise force.

 

Care must be taken as it is easy to slip and scratch the finish, when possible cover the surface with some tape.

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Charger Fan
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February 28, 2011 - 9:37 am
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Jayd, that't a nice pic you made above.smile

I agree, smacking a stubborn fastener with an impact driver, or just a plain 'ol socket will usually achieve good results. With the EWK hex tool, you wouldn't even need to shave down a socket. This thing would work excellent with an impact driver... 

Image Enlarger

 

Dutchmag, you've got a really nice looking area there, nice gun collection too. Thanks for sharing thecool-pics  I'm not sure why the site is losing your posts when you're trying to post. I guess just get in the habit of copying your posts before you hit send?broken-computer

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SHOOTIST357
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February 28, 2011 - 1:39 pm
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I'm a huge impact fan--but you have to be careful when working with 40 TPI threads...

rotational impact it what you truly need on fine threads, not direct impact.  Although the fine threads on a DW barrel/nut are precision artwork, they are like every other fastener out there...

99% of the time only ONE of those threads is actually gripping--the others are just along for the ride.  If you use direct impact on fine threads you run the risk of damaging that thread, and subsequent others.

Now we all know when it comes to stuck barrel nuts all the rules go out the window laugh...  Whatever it takes to get them off is usually the rule.

My newest effort into painless nut removal involves vibration, same as a jewelery cleaning tank (these work wonders on motorcycle carbs also )...

I figure if I soak a barrel end in penetrating fluid and strap an electric engraver to it, I should get enough cleansing action to remove stubborn nuts.... We'll see.....

SHOOT

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Dutchmag
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February 28, 2011 - 3:47 pm
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Thanks for al the compliments. embarassed

 

Yep, the screwrod is metric overhere. Al is metric, inluding the tools to use.  No problem, we have that al year. big-grin

 

I have a better screwrod now. Not 'the best' because thet did not have that one in stock……. everyware around the world the same problems….

 

Have a big C-clamp or what go's for it.  Got other kind of oil too. The only this missing for the next tryout is -time-. Long bad day at work, vissit my mom, having peolple over here. Kids are now sleeping in room next to my workshop. I think my day wil end in 45 minutes.It is dark (21.40) en cold overhere (-2) So the bed is calling my name.smile

 

The gun is in oil right now, and now I am breaking the rules overhere. It is not in the save. Before I'll go to sleep I will put it inthere. When de police drop's in a have a problem now. And they do somtimes drop in 2 times a year. They must be in the save, bullets in different locker. Key not in same room. They check the numbers on the guns, and if the guns are in place. All 5 of them. And 5 is max on normale licence. Yep, this is not the wild wild west.

 

Hope to find some time tomorrow. Thanks for al the thinking to all.

 

Edit: Don't forget to pic up the bench vise I ordered tomorrow. No vice no nutyob.

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Dutchmag
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March 1, 2011 - 2:46 pm
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Well,

 

The C-clamp option made my barrelnut worse. Stoped after first try.

 

Then with the gun in de vice using  better stuff on a fres oiled pipe. I have to use extreme power to break is, but i did. Then with 4 nuts on each other. I have to use a 2" pipe wrench to move the screwrod. So again much power. But the washer on the begin of the barrel (where the bullet enters) is slipping. It is making a hard "tang" when it slips. So, lots of tension overthere.

 

I also heated up the place where the barrel fits the frame. Same shit, differend temp.

 

So, gun is in the oil again. First the frame part. Tomorrow the G....d... nut part.

 

Can not shoot tomorrow anyway. It is my 6 weeks turn too take place behind the bar. occasion One for you, one for me. big-grin

 

In Holland you can only shoot when you are a member of a rifle club. And overthere I am one of the 6 dombo's who is volunteer for the bar. Wel, without volunteers no clubs. Or 'unions' like the inline translator tels me. ( don't know all the word)

 

The first faceplant is a fact!  frown

 

Dutchmag.

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Dutchmag
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March 3, 2011 - 2:00 pm
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For now the gun is in the save, I will let it rest for a week before I explode...... Just gave it a try with a friend. Lost of power and breaking screwrod's. Can not believe that a rod from the highest class will do the tric. But wil call tomorrow some other hardware stores, and when my hart is calm I'll try again. range-time

 

Maybe CZ will send me the tools I need.

 

Let you al know when somthing is happening.

 

Thanks. Dutchmag

 

 

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Charger Fan
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March 3, 2011 - 9:41 pm
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Dutchmag said:

In Holland you can only shoot when you are a member of a rifle club. And overthere I am one of the 6 dombo's who is volunteer for the bar.

That's better than having to be the "brass pick-up" guy, in my book.occasion lol2

Describe what happened with the C-clamp method, were you using the factory plastic barrel wrench under the clamp?

And the C-clamp you are using looks like this, right?

 

The "screw" end would go on the tool end...the barrel end, the other end of the clamp goes against the cylinder side (forcing cone) of your barrel...hopefully with a socket at that end, so the barrel can spin freely.

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