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Well, I have washed out the gun with "Winchester Gun Wash" several times, and re-oiled it. I bought a "Hoppes" gun cleaning kit and cleaned the barrel and the cylinder well. Then I used the lubricant and oiled everything that moves and let it set awhile. Darned if I don't think the thing works better than before. How easily is the cylinder supposed to work anyway?
I am thinking seriously about taking the gun to a gunsmith and let him clean it thoroughly. No way I could do it and get everything back together.
February 21, 2011
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Did you get the gap set up as well?
After the initial "pop" as the ball bearing rear lock comes free it should be very free, almost loose. The cylinder if spun with a finger while the action is open should freewheel a bit like testing a bicycle front wheel.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Yes-I set it at .006 as per the posts I've read. The cylinder is very free after it is disengaged. The only problem I have had is opening the cylinder from the gun-the initial movement when you press the release and try to swing the cylinder out.
February 21, 2011
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I think you're about done. My wife has a problem initially "cracking" mine, but I have no such problem with the exact same gun.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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koko14.2 said
Yes-I set it at .006 as per the posts I've read. The cylinder is very free after it is disengaged. The only problem I have had is opening the cylinder from the gun-the initial movement when you press the release and try to swing the cylinder out.
Are you saying that the problem is the latch not easily and freely releasing, or is something hanging up on the frame?
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
Not really sure-but it makes sense that the latch could be the problem. When it works well-it works well (duh!!) 
The latch seems to be hard to depress. Not a smooth motion. If this makes any sense at all.
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Dans Club
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November 17, 2008
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I am going out on a limb here and please take no offense if this seems elementary. A lot of folks who are used to other brands of revolvers have an issue with Dan's. Try holding the revolver by placing the trigger guard in the palm of your left hand and with your thumb holding down on the cylinder release, simultaneously push the cylinder out from the back side with your finger tips. Also you should take the latch out and clean and lube that area. The latch should move up and down without issue.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
How much trouble is it to remove the latch, and is it something that I can do. I know absolutely nothing about the
internal workings of a firearm except what I have learned from all the extremely knowlegeable and generous guys on this forum.
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Dans Club
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November 17, 2008
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Just remove this screw and the latch and spring will slide out.
I shamelessly swiped this pic from superdan. The screw is normally an Allen head but I have seen a few flat head models, not sure if they were OEM or not.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
I removed the screw and thanks to you I found my problem. The latch itself is dragging making it difficult to open the cylinder. How can I solve this problem?
Now how do you adjust the screw when replacing it-how far in & how far out ie: what position does the latch have to be in when replacing the screw? Several times I replaced the screw and the latch wouldn't move at all.
February 21, 2011
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A good scrubbing to start as a lot of crud gets blasted into the area during firing. If that doesn't work make sure the latch slides freely without the spring. Clean the spring anyway as a matter of principal at this point. More spray cleaner everywhere on the cut & the catch/spring.
Basically the catch should be 1/2 way between UP & DOWN, there may be a little wiggling to get it to fit back in properly. The screw should go back in just far enough to be flush with the front of the crane, no more.
Once the parts are clean & if the springless catch slides smoothly reassemble & test again. Its a step-by step process where you'll find as you fix the big problem the smaller one reveals itself. Then you fix that & look for the tiny one & so on.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
I want to take this opportunity to thank each and every one of you who have helped me so very much. I know I've been a "PITA" and I just want you to know how much I appreciate each of you.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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The other part of the latch problem is the notch that the latch locks into. The notch that the latch locks in to must be very clean (I use a dental pick to clean this area).
The DW cylinder lock up relies very heavily on the front cylinder locking up very firmly and consistently.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
I just took the latch out and upon checking, I found that the latch was grabbing-seems to be catching on something. Not all the time, but most of it. I took some 320 grit paper and smoothed several areas, and cleaned the area. Working better, but still have a way to go.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Please use emery cloth or a stone- #320 is too coarse. With the cloth you can get to the inside of the groves on the crane.. check your spring too; there may be an issue there as well. Be careful not to round the groves- use a well fitting square stick or something...
Regards, Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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