September 25, 2018
First and foremost, I apologize if this has been gone over, I tried searching and didn’t find any info.
I have had an issue when swapping barrels, when I go to apply the final torque on the barrel nut, the entire assembly will spin and pinch my feeler gauge. I have had to settle on spinning the barrel out just a hair and attempting to hold it still with my thumb against the forcing cone to get the assembly tight. After 2-3 attempts I can normally get it set pretty right.
I have 2 model 15’s and a 14. One of the 15’s does not have this occur, but the other 2 do.
Is this just the norm? Or might I be doing something wrong on assembly?
February 21, 2011
It happens.
The best trick I know of is to press up on the INSIDE of the breech end of the barrel with the hand holding the revolver while tightening with the other.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
You are to be applauded for discovering the solution yourself. We all do it that way. Some of us hold the gun up to the light to eyeball the gap. Much faster than using the shim. And it doesn't push the dedent ball in to give a false reading. You can then cycle the cylinder and check all the chambers in a couple of seconds.
February 21, 2011
The thing to remember is the gauge should JUST drag. Not grind down another 1/4 of a turn "Just because" .
Mine spit when I did the standard gauge, what I did was find the High (tight) & Low (loosest) chambers.
I used a "prick punch" on the tight chamber right at the rear flat. You don't even know its there unless you look, but it always findable.
Then I set the tightest to 3 thou.
The loosest was 5.5 (or so).
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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