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I usually use just a drop of gun oil on the threads at both ends of the barrel. It helps to prevent a stuck barrel nut. I've only rarely had a barrel 'shoot loose' and that was usually caused by under tightening to start with.
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SCORPIO said
I usually use just a drop of gun oil on the threads at both ends of the barrel. It helps to prevent a stuck barrel nut. I've only rarely had a barrel 'shoot loose' and that was usually caused by under tightening to start with.
Agreed. I made the mistake of loosening and tweeking shroud to the left in the field after shooting and warm. I had a time loosening w/ cool
Clean and dry then lightly oil
SIZE DOES MATTER
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March 2, 2008
pete_1 said
SCORPIO said
I usually use just a drop of gun oil on the threads at both ends of the barrel. It helps to prevent a stuck barrel nut. I've only rarely had a barrel 'shoot loose' and that was usually caused by under tightening to start with.Agreed. I made the mistake of loosening and tweeking shroud to the left in the field after shooting and warm. I had a time loosening w/ cool
Clean and dry then lightly oil
I usually put the oil on a cleaning patch and then "pinch" the patch around the threads and twist the barrel. Makes sure that it's just a light touch of oil and its well distributed on all the threads and into the threads
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rwsem said
I use nipple grease... Bruce; no comments allowed...
Well, you only "blocked" Bruce, so...
You use grease on your (uh) nuts? I mean barrel nuts?
Some things ARE genetic
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
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February 29, 2012
I use a dab of Permatex brand silver anti-seize on the barrel threads.
Have a tub of anti-seize (with a brush) in my tool box though, rather than a tube from when I used to turn wrenches for a living. A little bit of anti-seize goes a long ways.
I make sure that the threads on both ends of the barrel are clean and carbon free. Can usually tell what kind of shape the threads are in by simply turning the barrel nut on by hand.
The threads will often clean up fine with a little solvent and a toothbrush. Rarely if they are coated with carbon, I'll use a brass brush. I clean the threads every time I clean my revolvers. Afterwards I'll reapply a small spot of anti-seize on the threads using a Q-tip before screwing everything back together.
Haven't stuck a barrel nut since doing this, or anything else that I've taken the time to apply anti-seize to.
- Bullwolf
January 22, 2008
same as the rest of the gun, Mobile-1.
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February 29, 2012
Stinger said
Boss Dog said
same as the rest of the gun, Mobile-1.As in synthetic automobile engine lubricant ?
I'm with Boss Dog on this one. I've used a multitude of different lubricants on my guns and rifles over the years. The list goes on and on, but most of the popular ones, and the flavor of the week were in there.
My biggest complaint with many lubricants like Hoppes oil, and Rem oil is that they are mostly petroleum distillates. They will evaporate over time and disappear from your gun leaving you with no lubrication, and very little rust protection.
Ever pull a gun that you cleaned and oiled out of long term storage in the safe, only to find it bone dry? I have, and I've stopped using oils that do that.
After trying many different oils and even some waxes, I've figured out what many others have said for a while now. Mobil-1 synthetic makes one heck of a great gun oil. It doesn't go away, it's super slick, and it lasts, and lasts.
A full quart of Mobil-1 synthetic would be more than a lifetime supply for me. I usually turn a used bottle upside down, and then pour the remainder of a quart of Mobil-1 into an empty eye drop bottle. I use that as a drop of oil applicator. The little bit that's still left in a quart after filling my Harley probably goes farther than 2 of the tiny bottles of expensive brand name gun oil, and it works better too.
I'm a big fan of Automatic Trans Fluid too for soaking and clean ups, but honestly I can't stand the smell of it, so I could never stomach using it as a lube on my firearms.
I've lightly oiled up the internals of a Dan Wesson revolver with Mobil-1, and 2-3 years later taken off the side plate... And the Mobil-1 its still in there doing it's job.
One shortcoming Mobil-1 synthetic has, is that it's not a CLP, (Cleaner, Lubricant, Protector) or a strong rust preventative. As a lubricant though, it's one of the best I have ever used. The only thing I have found better than Mobil-1 synthetic, is an expensive designer gun lube - Slip 2000 pure synthetic EWL.
My gun care process basically consists of a G96 CLP rag wipe down.
*Best smelling CLP ever! The wife even likes the smell of G96 Complete Gun Treatment*
If the firearm has a blued finish, I like a protective coat of renaissance wax. My second choice is a Carnauba wax like Johnson's Paste Wax. I do this with shotguns that will see use in rain as well.
Then I lubricate anything that requires it, with a drop or two of Mobil-1 Synthetic.
If you know someone who can't stand the smell of Hoppes, or think that Eezox smells like a urinal mint cake, you owe it to yourself to try G96 CLP. It's one of my favorite gun smells, and a great CLP.
We all like to use the best lubricants we can on our beloved firearms, but gun's don't really see extreme temperatures, and they are not high RPM automotive engines. Most of our lubrication requirements have been easily met for many years using basic lubricants like 3 in 1 oil, WD-40, Marvel Mystery oil, sewing machine oil, and even plain old grease.
There are guns out there like 1911's, still chugging along fine with over a 100 years of low tech lubrication. Sometimes being gun aficionados, we tend to over think the whole gun lubrication thing.
- Bullwolf
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Steve said
rwsem said
I use nipple grease... Bruce; no comments allowed...Well, you only "blocked" Bruce, so...
You use grease on your (uh) nuts? I mean barrel nuts?
Some things ARE genetic
To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:
if you find one...what's your plan?
December 19, 2015
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Bullwolf said
I use a dab of Permatex brand silver anti-seize on the barrel threads.
Have a tub of anti-seize (with a brush) in my tool box though, rather than a tube from when I used to turn wrenches for a living. A little bit of anti-seize goes a long ways.
I make sure that the threads on both ends of the barrel are clean and carbon free. Can usually tell what kind of shape the threads are in by simply turning the barrel nut on by hand.
The threads will often clean up fine with a little solvent and a toothbrush. Rarely if they are coated with carbon, I'll use a brass brush. I clean the threads every time I clean my revolvers. Afterwards I'll reapply a small spot of anti-seize on the threads using a Q-tip before screwing everything back together.
Haven't stuck a barrel nut since doing this, or anything else that I've taken the time to apply anti-seize to.
- Bullwolf
Anti-Seize Lubricant? Man, I need to inject some of that stuff into my knees!
To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:
if you find one...what's your plan?
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I'll stick to a light oil or a light grease also, I've gotten some Dan's that seem to have a more loose thread on the receiver side after previous owner had used anti seize on them. Probably not related, though I've never had a problem with a light oil. Bottom line is use what you like the best.
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