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December 9, 2014
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I've been cycling through the cylinder bores just checking the action. I noticed once that the trigger did not return. I dry fired it a few times and it happened again. I caught it first go on the following video.
What does this malfunction indicate? Is there a fix I can do myself? Any help is appreciated. I haven't even got to shoot it yet!
Click this link for the video.
EDIT: I just got a pack of snap caps in there and now it sticks 1/6 times (when firing DA). Every 6 DA pulls it stops on the same chamber. When firing SA the same chamber makes the trigger release feel gritty, but does not fully stick. Does this help identify the potential problem? I am going to get some punches in order to do the AJT, but is there something else I should be looking at as far as the cylinder issue? Is it "timing"? New to this, so all suggestions are appreciated!
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October 14, 2010
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Have you seen the average Joe tuneup thread? I'm sure someone will post a link. It may be a weak spring or she might just need a good cleaning inside. Pull the side plate and check it out. These are very owner friendly to work on.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Gotta agree- first step; The AJT
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October 1, 2012
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Hi, I cant open video but
Check your trigger overtravel screw. If it lets trigger go a LITTLE bit too far it will stick every once in awhile.
Some of the wolfff trigger springs are too light and will cause sticking also.
HUGELK
January 26, 2009
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I second what Hugelk said. Had this happen to me. Check to make sure the trigger does not contact the trigger guard when it is fully rearward. If it does, adjust the trigger stop to keep it from coming back so far.
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April 20, 2010
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I have an older Dan that did that when I bought it, the Average Joe cleaning cleared it up. Just a cleaning on guns this old can take care of a lot.
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
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July 2, 2011
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I agree. Start with the tune up and deep clean. My 715 did the same thing when I first got. The tune worked magic.
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if you find one...what's your plan?
December 9, 2014
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Thanks everyone. I probably won't be able to get around to it until next week or later but I have some new info. I just got a pack of snap caps in there and now it sticks 1/6 times (when firing DA). Every 6 DA pulls it stops on the same chamber. When firing SA the same chamber makes the trigger release feel gritty, but does not fully stick. Does this help identify the potential problem? I am going to get some punches in order to do the AJT, but is there something else I should be looking at as far as the cylinder issue? Is it "timing"? New to this, so all suggestions are appreciated!
MT
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Dans Club
December 4, 2011
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When it hangs up, can you see any light between the cylinder face and the barrel? I'm still guessing the gap is set too tight and on that one proud chamber you are encountering binding. Get a barrel wrench from EWK and reset that gap to .006" and see what happens.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
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If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.
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December 9, 2014
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SCORPIO said
When it hangs up, can you see any light between the cylinder face and the barrel?
I can see a slight gap, although when I checked with my feeler gauges .006 did run through (not easily).
Now the trigger seems to lock up after almost every pull. I've been working the trigger now that I have some snap caps in there, whether or not they are needed to dry fire, and it's at the point where it is sticking after every pull.
I'm going to have to give it the AJT and report back.
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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There is probably a small screw in the back side of the trigger. You need to back that out about a half turn at a time til you get it adjusted. Otherwise. The side plate will need to be opened to be sure the trgger return is in its place or rhat no gunk is causing the problem with the hang..
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I suspect Scorpio is correct. One cylinder is prouder. That is why every 6 shots it happens. When you force the .006 shim in it pushes the cylinder against the dedent ball and spring. You will then get a false reading. You really must have a barrel tool if you own a dan. The threads on the barrel and frame must be kept clean and oiled , and the correct gap set. You can do the average joe tuneup without punches . They are only needed for the firing pin and the rear sight. .006 is specified to prevent this problem. If you set the gap to .003 on the cylinder that sticks you should be good to go. The shim should slide in without forcing it.
December 9, 2014
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Ole Dog said
.006 is specified to prevent this problem. If you set the gap to .003 on the cylinder that sticks you should be good to go. The shim should slide in without forcing it.
Thanks Ole Dog. I'll get the tool from EWK. Did you mean to say set the sticking cylinder to .003, or .006?
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December 4, 2011
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Go wider to day .006 on the tightest chamber and see how it runs, then you can set it closer if works. Better to start loose than too tight.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
My father
If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.
My grandfather
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March 25, 2013
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What Scorpio says. .006 is specified to prevent this very thing. Also cylinders will expand when hot and the face can get dirty when shooting more than a few cylinders worth. We can reset the gap at the range while other makes need to have a larger gap with the loss of power and chance of spitting powder. That is why most of us use the smallest gap we can get away with.
December 9, 2014
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Well folks, I have some good news and some bad news. The good news is Eric from EWS got me a mighty fine barrel tool to thread out my (#$%*ing WAY too tight) barrel nut. Thanks. Because of the I was able to get the suspect sticky chamber to .006. I was also able to do my own AJT - which was very fun and a good learning experience. BUT...
The trigger (although smoother on the squeeze) still sticks. I just can't figure it out! I tried taking the barrel/cylinder gap all the way back to .015 just to check, and it still stuck (mostly) every sixth squeeze. Then it seemed to stick at will no matter how the cylinder was oriented, at random. Then it would stop for maybe 20 or so squeezes... and then STICK again! ???
When it is stuck, it can be released by fidgeting with the cylinder, pressing toward the handle on the base of the cylinder arm, pressing the cylinder release down, and (sometimes) pulling the hammer back, or even pushing it forward when it is in the neutral position.
The part where the trigger acts funny, other than getting stuck, is on the release. Like I said, the AJT provides a nicer, smooth trigger pull, but the release is noisy and clunky.
Something I noticed while it was opened up was that the trigger spring wants to move toward the side plate, rather than stay in the groove on the trigger. It naturally wants to go to the pin below on the trigger. See here for reference. Other than reassembling it incorrectly (I don't suspect this, but will try), what could be going on?
I bought the Wolff shooter pack of springs and hope this helps. Thanks all!
EDIT: Thanks for reading, but this is basically, when I was doing the AJT and screwed the long side plate screw into the hammer spring to retain tension, I noticed if I kept going with it it pushed the hammer up. So basically I backed the grip screw out and back in until it held, but no more. Seems to have cleared some things up... I gave it a few dozen squeezes and no sticking... *knock on wood*. I'll reinvestigate in the morning and hopefully have it on the range before Christmas. Oh, what a gift to me!
MT
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April 20, 2010
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Keep us posted, yep a too long grip screw can be the source of SO many function issues on a Dan Wesson. If trouble persists I am sure we will figure it out.
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
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March 25, 2013
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I have found that the Wolff trigger return spring eliminates a lot of the scratchy noises and feel of the trigger. Your original trigger spring could be slipping but every six pulls is a mystery. If a new spring doesn't help and wiggling the cylinder releases the trigger it may be the rachet star has been damaged on one of its six arms. Maybe a trip to DW is in order.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Here's hoping you found your problem. Congrats on the AJT. Now you're unstoppable.
February 29, 2012
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mtwtrf said
EDIT: I backed the grip screw out and back in until it held, but no more. Seems to have cleared some things up... I gave it a few dozen squeezes and no sticking... *knock on wood*. I'll reinvestigate in the morning and hopefully have it on the range before Christmas.
MT
The grip screw thing catches many new DW owners unaware. It's usually the first thing we recommend to check if you are having problems cocking your revolver.
If someone has really cranked it the grip screw down hard (which is unnecessary) it can crush or distort the grip base and then consequently it's quite easy to screw it in too far afterwards.
I add a couple of extra washers to my grip screw. It keeps me from screwing it in too far on accident, and affecting function.
Image courtesy of Blacktop
A shorter grip screw would probably work just as well. The good news is that it's very easy to diagnose. Simply remove the grip screw and then cock and dry-fire the revolver checking for function.
Glad that you got it diagnosed, and I hope you enjoy your range trip.
- Bullwolf
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