December 9, 2014
Ole Dog said
I am glad I was wrong. I ASSUMED the grip screw was ruled out. Gotta love the ability to fix them yourselves.
Well Ole Dog, I'm not out of the fire yet. I ordered the Wolff Springs shooters pack and added the trigger return spring and 7.5 lb hammer spring. I'm having the darnedest time keeping the trigger return spring on the proper surface. It keeps jumping off onto the cylinder arm rod. Even if I manage to put the side plate back on with it on the proper surface, it will jump off within few trigger pulls. I can tell, because the trigger begins to stick again!!!
EDIT: I got the spring to stay on the proper surface. now having trigger stick every DA pull, but never on SA... I'm confused!
December 9, 2014
jwk said
I second what Hugelk said. Had this happen to me. Check to make sure the trigger does not contact the trigger guard when it is fully rearward. If it does, adjust the trigger stop to keep it from coming back so far.
ding ding ding! I re read the thread and this solved ALL my life's problems. Thanks so much everyone for the diagnoses. I had a good time doing my own AJT and getting to know the revolver better. Now... off to the range!
MT
October 1, 2012
I was going to encourage you again to check the overtravel screw. this is an often overlooked fine adjustment to these quality revolvers. A few thousandths of an inch is difference between occasional hanginging up or a crisp release.. Glad that it solved the problem for you. But also glad you got into the gun and got to know it better. I like working on the guns ALMOST as much as shooting them... HUGELK
December 9, 2014
hugelk said
I was going to encourage you again to check the overtravel screw. this is an often overlooked fine adjustment to these quality revolvers. A few thousandths of an inch is difference between occasional hanginging up or a crisp release.. Glad that it solved the problem for you. But also glad you got into the gun and got to know it better. I like working on the guns ALMOST as much as shooting them... HUGELK
Yes! I was just coming back here to thank you for the suggestion, HUGELK. I actually overlooked that adjustment because none of my allen wrenches were small enough and the one that was small enough is straight. Well... its bent now, and that's how I was able to make the adjustment! Very crisp return, at least compared to what it was.
Is there a "sweet spot" for this adjusting screw? Right now the part of the trigger that gets closest to the guard is approximately .006 to .010 away from the guard. Will finer adjustments have any effect?
Thanks again.
October 1, 2012
Most of my 357s have about two threads showing. You want to set it as far away from the frame as possible while still having the gun fire. then screw it in about another half turn. Ideally you want the trigger to drop the hammer just before it hits the trigger screw ... Im glad you are getting this problem resolved. You will love shooting the gun . Happy holidays
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
hugelk said
Most of my 357s have about two threads showing. You want to set it as far away from the frame as possible while still having the gun fire. then screw it in about another half turn. Ideally you want the trigger to drop the hammer just before it hits the trigger screw ... Im glad you are getting this problem resolved. You will love shooting the gun . Happy holidays
This is exactly right
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
This is good to know. I have not had this problem yet with my many 15-2's. Do you still have the problem of the trigger return spring slipping off the ledge of the trigger? The spring can get out of shape and cause it to slip and to make unpleasant scratching noises as well as a stacking feel. The Wolff spring is much smoother.
December 9, 2014
Ole Dog said
This is good to know. I have not had this problem yet with my many 15-2's. Do you still have the problem of the trigger return spring slipping off the ledge of the trigger? The spring can get out of shape and cause it to slip and to make unpleasant scratching noises as well as a stacking feel. The Wolff spring is much smoother.
Yes, the action is very nice now. Actually, Ole Dog, I took a hands on approach and "encouraged" the spring arm a little bit to ensure it would not slip off onto the cylinder hand pin. This is the replacement Wolff spring that was slipping. I had to put about a 3 or 4 degree bend into it so it would slip. Probably could have been less, but it worked with the first bend so I did not adjust it. I don't think this will be a problem, although maybe a brutish solution. I just saw no other way. I did try to give it a gentle bend, and do not feel the action is compromised. What are your thoughts on that?
I'm finally heading to the range tomorrow. Can't wait to put a box of .357 and .38 special through.
If the action is good I would not worry. I have found that a bad trigger return spring is unpleasant. Usually if you can slip the side plate on without moving the hand the side plate will prevent the return spring from slipping. If the return spring has been bent out of place while reinstalling it it may want to slip. I if you get light strikes it might be the 7 1/2 lb hammer spring. I use the 8 lb.
December 9, 2014
Ole Dog said
Usually if you can slip the side plate on without moving the hand the side plate will prevent the return spring from slipping ... I if you get light strikes it might be the 7 1/2 lb hammer spring. I use the 8 lb.
I would agree with you about the side plate keeping the return spring from slipping when dry firing. But my experience today was after 50 rounds it again slipped on to the cylinder hand pin. I think I was getting a few light strikes so I'll have to try a stronger hammer spring.
I just posted this range report to let everyone who has helped me through these issues know how things turned out!
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