Register
Log In
Home
August 20, 2019
Offline
The "new" 15-2 frame I bought has peening on the opposite side I'm used to seeing it on other revolvers. It is present to a much lesser degree on my other 15-2. It appears on all the notches on the same side. No peening on the side you'd expect it from much use or speed shooting. It seems to be a very little used frame and the rest of the cylinder is perfect except for a very light drag line. The gun shoots very well and all the chambers line up with the barrel when I inspected with a bore light. It doesn't shave lead. It locks up tight and just before the hammer breaks. The locking bolt shows no signs of wear. What do you more experienced DW owners think is the cause? I'm wondering if the bolt is a little thicker on the side where the peening is occurring or a timing issue but that's just my guess as a novice.
Supporter
Dans Club
March 25, 2013
Offline
I have never seen that on any of my Dans and I have many dozens. Granted, a lot have not seen much use. I have many more blue guns than stainless and the steel is a lot harder. I would call the factory and ask them. Sounds like a trip home. BTW, I, am a real person. Lol.
August 20, 2019
Offline
You're my go to guy for good advice, so I agree contacting CZ/DW is a good idea. I inspected photos of DWs currently on GB and there's at least two with a similar issue although they're more worn than my frame/cylinder.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
Offline
I checked one of my 15-2's and it has similar wear on every slot. I think it is a result of the bolt sliding over the edge of the slot as the cylinder turns and gradually wearing down the originally sharp edge rather than peening. My DW does have a significant wear line on the cylinder.
Something I never thought about or noticed!
August 20, 2019
Offline
Thanks for the input, snake-eye. I tend to be a little anal about inspecting a "new"used revolver and maybe it's just cosmetic and won't get worse. I might not have noticed if the cylinder had been more worn but as it is it jumps out at you when you look at it. When locked up the cylinder has no play rotation wise and very little end shake. If it's just wear from snapping into the notch, I don't know why it's peened over(creating a ridge) only on one side which I'm able to catch with my finger nail when I drag it across. Two of my well worn LE trade in model 10s have peening on the other side of the notch where you would expect it but not there. I'll contact CZ/DW with a photo to see what they think. I just don't want to further bugger up a very nice cylinder.
Supporter
Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
Offline
All of my blued DWs (more than a few) have some degree or another of the same wear. I'd say completely normal...
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
August 20, 2019
Offline
rwsem, glad to hear that. I was waiting to see if some of you had seen this on your guns. Thanks.
Supporter
Dans Club
March 25, 2013
Offline
Stonebuster, S&W cylinders rotate in the other direction. Counter clockwise. That would explain the model 10 wear on the other side of the notch.
August 20, 2019
Offline
Ole Dog, I realize my S&W and Rugers rotate counterclockwise To be more clear: my worn model 10s have peening on side "B" and my DW has peening on side "A" . For lack of a better term, the "ramped" side of the notch the bolt slides down to get to lockup is where my DW's peened and the M10 is "opposite side." I'm beginning to think it's normal to some degree.
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
Offline
stonebuster said
Thanks for the input, snake-eye. I tend to be a little anal about inspecting a "new"used revolver and maybe it's just cosmetic and won't get worse. I might not have noticed if the cylinder had been more worn but as it is it jumps out at you when you look at it. When locked up the cylinder has no play rotation wise and very little end shake. If it's just wear from snapping into the notch, I don't know why it's peened over(creating a ridge) only on one side which I'm able to catch with my finger nail when I drag it across. Two of my well worn LE trade in model 10s have peening on the other side of the notch where you would expect it but not there. I'll contact CZ/DW with a photo to see what they think. I just don't want to further bugger up a very nice cylinder.
Huh, your post made me drag out all my DW's tonight for a look-see. Not that I'm complaining, I love a good reason to drag them all out! 
I only have one that is showing a little evidence of peening (very minor), my 15-2 Pistol Pac gun with lots of mileage...AND it shaves lead. Drives me nuts, I'm tired of it spitting back at me! The lead shaving thing has made me think it's time for a trip home to Mother DW, maybe this peening thing too will be the deciding factor. 
April 19, 2020
Offline
Stonebuster,
I had the same issue on my 15-2. Turns out it is a timing issue. The bolt is not completely locked when the hammer falls. The lock cycle completes microseconds after ignition. This slams the cylinder and bolt together - peening the notch. Easy repair for a revolver smith.
My 15-2 was very accurate and didn't shave lead but I wondered about the peening. A trip to my gunsmith solved the problem. I bought the gun used and a prior owner replaced the hand and didn't properly fit it to the cylinder. It was off by .002", just enough to cause the problem.
I traded the gun and bought a new 715. It's repaired, so the new owner now has an explanation for the peening!
October 17, 2017
Offline
Buying used revolvers can definitely be a little interesting. I replaced the cylinder on my 15-2 once. The used one I got on eBay had much smoother chambers which was really nice, but the ratchet had been 'worked on' by a previous owner. They had ground a little off the whole ratchet face (which can only increase the end shake), and apparently ground a bit off each of the ratchet points as well. My guess is that they had bought a new hand and rather than fit the hand they ground the ratchet points instead. The result was an unusable part, so I used my original ejector and everything worked great.
When I first got my 15-1 the timing was just a bit off so I refitted a new hand. Very tedious process. One has to keep the mindset of "you can't put it back" as you carefully file the part. Just the smallest amount too much and subtle timing issues can appear.
August 20, 2019
Offline
John McInally said
Stonebuster,I had the same issue on my 15-2. Turns out it is a timing issue. The bolt is not completely locked when the hammer falls. The lock cycle completes microseconds after ignition. This slams the cylinder and bolt together - peening the notch. Easy repair for a revolver smith.
My 15-2 was very accurate and didn't shave lead but I wondered about the peening. A trip to my gunsmith solved the problem. I bought the gun used and a prior owner replaced the hand and didn't properly fit it to the cylinder. It was off by .002", just enough to cause the problem.
I traded the gun and bought a new 715. It's repaired, so the new owner now has an explanation for the peening!
Thanks for the information. Holding the gun up to the light and very slowly pulling the trigger while watching the bolt, it seems to be fully seated before the hammer falls. I checked each chamber and I don't see the bolt any deeper seated after the hammer falls than before it falls. Of course there's no way to check at ignition. My other 15-2 shows the same peening to a lesser degree in exactly the same place. I checked it the same way as my "new" 15-2 with the same results. I wonder if once it displaces a little metal in the notch it becomes a non issue functionally and just cosmetic. Neither of my 15-2s shave lead. I now realize how quickly the hammer falls on the DWs after lockup as it's difficult to pull the trigger slowly enough and precise enough to check it visually. My Rugers have a lot of travel after lockup.
1 Guest(s)
