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December 12, 2009
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Well I tell you what I have come up with. First I start at 6 and work my way in as close as I can. I stop when the cylinder get stiff or needs help to rotate. Testing groups at each setting. On a lot a DW's the gap setting is huge on accuracy, some like my 15-2 will not group any where but 6. Some it just dose not matter. When I set my gap I have brass in every chamber. This is a must for you guys who run as tight as you can for velocity increase. When I run a tight gap I will also check the reading at the firing pin and look for consistency, this may be only a thousands out more than you wanted, but reliability comes in to play here. As a lifted primer or cratered primer will result in a hard cylinder rotate or no rotate. I do have a theory on tight cylinder gap that just mite make you think a little. Have you ever used a torch? If you have you know that a tight defined flame will cut steel, and a open flame will not. The question is will a tight gap flame cut a gun faster, than say a 4,5. or 6? Let me know what you think.
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Moderators
January 24, 2009
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I would tend to think that a tighter gap will allow less flame to escape & thereby have less risk of flame cutting on the frame. From what I've read, that's a lot of the reason behind the .002 gap on .357 SuperMags.
I like your thoughts on gap-setting technique.
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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Flame-cutting, should not be an issue with a 15-2. There just isn't enough powder to accomplish it. I use .002 as the gap (on the tightest fitting cylinder position) for all of my Dan's with no ill effects.
-Mike
December 12, 2009
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Another thing dose anybody have a good way to hold the barrel in place when tightening. I open the cylinder and put my finger on the end of the barrel. As I still get movement, If I want a .003 I will set at a loose .004 and the barrel will move right at the end and then I get at least close to the setting I wanted. Any ideas on holding the barrel in place?
February 2, 2009
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I wouldn't do it with my supermag, but I did see a 44 fixed by having a small hole drilled in the side of the frame and tapped for an allen screw. The guy told me he couldn't get the gap right because of the movement you mentioned, so he had a gunsmith friend tap it, once tightened it keeps the barrel fixed. The screw butts against the barrel threads, my concern, if it damages the threads.
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 9, 2009
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As far as gap, I usually set about.003 on most revolvers except the .375SM which they recommend at .006. I have had a few guns where the barrel turns just before tight and have sometimes done what you did. The issue has usually been the thread were just not free turning on the barrel. When I have a reason to send something in to CZ I will usually send problem barrels in for thread tracing at the same time, that corrects the barrel turning issue. While tightening a barrel I place the gun between my legs to hold it.
A man cannot have too many SuperMags
December 12, 2009
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Oh, I here yeah on the between the legs. I crank them on as tight as possible. I have been witness to them shooting loose in while competing in a shoot. I have also found a .003 works as a safety net setting on model 40's. Thanks for the info on the threads. I will definitely do the thread tracing, as I know a half a dozen other DW's will get this treatment too.
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