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January 22, 2008
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It is best to leave the finish original. You can list the set in the classified section of this forum, or you can place it in the auction listing on this forum. The most exposure would be to list it on Gun Broker. You shouldn't have a problem finding someone on this forum that would be interested.
When I first met my wife, she was riding a Ducati 748.
-Wayne
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January 24, 2009
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I have a couple questions, but first…
to the
Do you know if your grandfather bought everything there as one group, or did he add to it as he went? The reason I ask, is that most Mini-Pac sets I've seen so far, have not had that many barrels & (especially) grips.
It is definitely a Model 14 service revolver, which means that it would have had a matte finish from the factory, not gloss. Is the matte maybe why you're thinking the finish is only 85%, or is it actually wearing some "character" marks?
Wayne is right, a 14-2 Pac is definitely uncommon. I've only seen one other so far…and I missed out on it.
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January 24, 2009
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wdelack said:
When I first met my wife, she was riding a Ducati 748.
December 15, 2009
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It was purchased as it is shown with all of the barrels, grips and accessories. I remember it all when it was new. The bluing has some some rough spots in it and is faded in areas along with some holster wear. There are some minor marks in it. As I stated earlier, I would estimate it to be in about 85% condition. I know it isn't the richer bluing I've seen on some Dan Wessons.
Thanks for the help everyone.
And 748's are great bikes!
March 1, 2010
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460smdave said:
Small frame models.
- 11 (357 Mag) Service Pork Chop
- 12 (357 Mag) Target Pork Chop
- 14 (357 Mag) Service Pork Chop
- 15 (357 Mag) Target Pork Chop
- 14 (357 Mag) Service
- 15 (357 Mag) Target
- 722 (.22 Long Rifle) Target
- 22M (.22 Win. Mag) Target
- 722M (.22 Win. Mag) Target
- 8-2 (.38 Special) Service
- 708 (.38 Special) Service
- 9-2 (.38 Special) Target
- 709 (.38 Special) Target
- 14-2 (.357 Mag) Service
- 714 (.357 Mag) Service
- 15-2 (.357 Mag) Target
- 715 (.357 Mag) Target
Models starting with a 7 are stainless guns.
Service models had fixed rear sights
Target models have adjustable rear sightsThere are other models please help fill in the blanks.
The most common small frame guns are the model 15 and 15-2, the thought is the -2 guns have minor differences when Monson started manufacturing the guns and labeled it the -2. One of the changes noted is shape of the hammer.
When Bob Serva bought the Dan Wesson company and moved it to Norwich NY, he retooled the shop with all new CNC machines and the first guns he produced were marked "First issue" they went back to labeling the model 15 and 715 dropping the -2.
Dave
Where is that information stamped on the gun?
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November 17, 2008
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First let me say to the . We strive to be the authority on DW's here, but some of the info is sketchy. However only a few of the early DW's had a model number on the gun, It was on the box or in the catalog. Yours is a very common question. If you have a pic we can probably identify it, or just surf through here and I feel sure you will run across one like yours.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
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January 24, 2009
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Yep, what he said.
Show us some
& we can nail it for ya quickly.
May 28, 2010
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My first post.
Hi guys, Dan here, I have a 357 that I assume is a 15 with 6" barrel, but perhaps you can verify. This gun was originally purchased by my grandfather (don't know when, prob late 70s early 80s) and was rarely fired. My brother was the first to inherit it but being the person he is, sold it. The gun was later recovered from a dead guy and given back to my grandma because the registration was never properly and it was still hers. Unfortunately the dead guy clearly mis-treated it. The grip looks terrible on one side, and the bluing is all messed up. The worst is some weird greenish gunk that is in the sight slots and the barrel tip. Also, it will only rotate the cylinder maybe one out of twenty times, otherwise it just hangs up when using the trigger.
What can you guys tell me about this gun and what should I do to have it restored? Since I plan on keeping the gun I am interested in a different grip and going to a silver look. But I know very little about guns and don't know if that's possible. In the least I'd like to bring the finish to something consistent. I mechanically inclined and ready to attack some items with the right instructions, but otherwise I'd like a professional to review it.
Engraving on barrel says DAN WESSON ARMS 357 MAGNUM CTG. On the frame: DAN WESSON ARMS MONSON, MASS U.S.A. Then serial number 29218x. No model number stated.
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November 17, 2008
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WOW! Poor little guy sure has had it rough. Glad you plan to rescue it. Pics make it hard to tell sometimes, but it appears to be stainless which will make it a model 715. At first I thought it had been through a fire but the front sight still has the plastic insert,so not likely. If you do the work your self I believe I would remove the grip and drop her in a pan full of ATF and let it soak for a day or two then completely dissasemble and determine the damage, as it looks rough. You will need a barrel wrench so look to the left of the screen for the best option. This one may very well require the attention of a smith but there are a lot of guys here who will go a long way to help you rescue this abused Dan. Good luck and keep us informed.
Oh, By the way. to the .
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
May 28, 2010
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Thanks for the reply! So just the grip off and I can soak the whole thing in ATF? Great, that's a good start.
I was suprised to hear you say it might be stainless. Are you sure it's just not that worn? I have to wonder what this guy put it through because it used to be a deep consistent blue.
Here's a couple of sunlit pics:
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March 2, 2008
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This is a major project, but likely do-able. That is a Model 15-2 with a 6V (for vent rib) barrel. The cylinder stop (a little tab on the sideplate that stops the cylinder from sliding rearward when ejecting empty brass) is missing, but is available from DW/CZ as a replacement part. Start here to find the parts list and info to contact DW/CZ:
https://www.danwessonforum.com/?page_id=3/parts-and-service/2009-dan-wesson-parts-price-list/
You can easily disassemble your DW to determine in the functional problems are due to broken parts or dirt, crud, and neglect. Here's our home gunsmithing tutorial:
https://www.danwessonforum.com/?page_id=3/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/
Your 15-2 can likely be re-blued to new condition, here's the guy to try:
https://www.danwessonforum.com/?page_id=3/parts-and-service/hot-bluing-service/
My local gunsmith recently refinished my 15-2 in Bright Nickel, a complete teardown, polishing, and refinishing, reassembly.
If you want to turn the entire thing over to someone for repairs, either the DW/CZ Factory can do the work, this guy in Iowa seems to be highly recommended:
https://www.danwessonforum.com/?page_id=3/parts-and-service/dw-repair/
Above all, just start researching right here on DWF. There is a huge amount of information here from people who have owned DW revolvers for MANY years, and in many varieties.
Your DW is almost certainly fixable, cost may be an issue, but a lot of options exist.
Good luck and Welcome.
Steve
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
May 28, 2010
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Very good info Steve. I researched to make sure I knew what your were talking about with the Cylinder Stop, but it's definitely there. The action problem it has seems to be related to the part that causes the cylinder to turn.
Maybe I should move this to the gunsmith section.
~D.
May 28, 2010
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Hello everyone,
I'm new to guns in general, but I'm really new to Dan Wesson guns. Grew up in the Springfield MA area and never even knew there was anything other than Smith & Wesson in Springfield.
I purchased a Dan Wesson .38 revolver today, stamped Model D11, and wanted to learn more about the gun, the company, its history, etc. I noticed on the list of models there is no D11 and the only 11 is in .357 not in .38
Here are some pics for you guys, maybe you'll like them maybe you'll think this thing is just old and ratty, but it isn't too badly abused and after shooting it tonight, I couldn't be happier.
Thanks for any help you can give with what year it was approximately
made in, and any other cool facts you know. I did read into the
barrel type and know it is a pork chop because of the piece of metal
that drops down under the barrel. I'm sure you guys know much more
than that! 
-awarmgun413
Pics:
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January 24, 2009
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Awarmgun, congrats on your D11 score, those guns are not easy to find these days. Going by the available info we have so far, I believe your D11 was built within the first year or two of DW production…1970~71. Your gun is the Service revolver brother to the W12 Target model. The D11 later evolved into the Model 14 Service revolver.
The D11 was chambered both in .38 & .357 varieties, although I believe the .38 is less common. The early ones were rollmarked without the letters in the model, the "D&W" were added a few months later.
There's two things I see on yours that have been changed since it was made, the grips & the barrel nut. The grips are from the 80's-to-current era, and the barrel nut is from around the timeframe when the flush barrel Porkchops were introduced ('74 to late '75). Your gun would have left the factory with either the 12-point removable nut…
…or the smooth "fixed barrel" nut. I'm still a little unclear why this nut was used, because it's definitely threaded on there.
judging from the fact that your nut is from a few years later, I bet yours was originally shipped with this nut…merely because you can't take the barrel, cylinder & crane apart without first removing this nut.
There are many more Porkchop pics in this thread…
https://www.danwessonforum.com/?page_id=3/dan-wesson-small-frame-revolvers/porkchops/
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November 17, 2008
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OK Denials, it apparently is not stainless, and as far as the ATF bath, that was just my idea as I "assume " the screws and barrel nut will be frozen in place. You may want to take another approach, but a oil bath sure can't hurt, other than being messy. Either way good luck.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
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January 24, 2009
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DenialS said:
I researched to make sure I knew what your were talking about with the Cylinder Stop, but it's definitely there.
From here, it looks like I can see right through the hole in the side plate where the cylinder stop used to be...maybe it's just the pic angle. Looks like you're missing your upper sideplate screw, too.
My first thought was the same as LB's, I thought it had been through a fire.
But that would have melted the plastic in the front sight, so maybe the gun merely fell into a bucket of paint stripper, or acid, or who knows what? Wow.
I'd definitely let it soak in some ATF for a while though, then take it apart & see what's what. The sentimental value makes it worth your time, for sure. Let us know how you make out.
August 21, 2010
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My dad gave me his 357 magnum CTG today. The serial # is 352431. Can anyone tell me anything about it or tell me wher I can find info on it?
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November 17, 2008
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to the . This is the place for info. Lots of knowledgeable folks here, plus it's just plain fun to hang out here. Check the serial number list on the right of the screen for a build date. welcome
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
November 29, 2010
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What I'm trying to figure out is the serial #. I have seen the ones listed in this forum but it doesn't match those. It is a stainless with the ser: SB0082XX. It is stamped with .44 cal and also Monson. Once I get photobucket to work (or something else) I'll post a picture. What I want to know is what the serial stands for.
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