February 11, 2009
I recently obtained a DW 357. It has a problem that I think may be with the trigger spring.
What happens: I cock the hammer but it will not stay at full cock. It returns to the down position. Pull the side cover off and the trigger spring is disengaged.
Where is the long end of the spring supposed to sit?
I have a schematic but it just shows the parts in an expolded view. Not how the various pieces interconnect.
As an side note: I used to have a DW 357 back when they were still being make in Monson. Currently have this 'new to me' 357 and a Pointman Major.
December 17, 2008
Main spring sits all the way down through then the tang in the Main spring seat (49)and the Main Spring Guide (10) that goes into the center of the spring, rests in the indentation on the back of the hammer cam.
It almost sounds like you don't have a Main Spring Guide.
If you do have a Main Spring Guide & that's not the problem, check to be sure you have the correct length grip screw. The long grip screw with the small grip (undercover) will cause exactly what you are describing (because it pushes the seat and spring too far up into the tang, so the main spring coil binds before the action can lock).
DW makes two different length grip screws (both available from DW in Norwich).
Let us know if that helps - some of the other members may have addtional insights if it doesn't.
February 11, 2009
I should have been more specific about which spring.
Pc# 41 the trigger return spring. I've tried to put it on the back of the hand #38, between the hand and the trigger #39 to no avail. It doesn't stay. At the first full cock of the hammer it falls off. Possibly a piece broke off the end of the long arm of that spring that now makes it too short?
I stiill need to know where it (the long arm of the trigger return spring) is supposed to sit.
The main spring et al is there and functions correctly.
December 17, 2008
dedgar - apologies, you did say trigger spring, didn't you?
Let me see if I can help: It sounds like you may be putting the sping itself in the wrong position - although it's hard to say without a picture.
This is probably the identifier for you: the long arm of the trigger spring should rest in a groove (it is actually a notch that looks like a rabbeted edge) that is on the top of the trigger - the trigger spring does not go against the hand or exert any pressure on the hand.
Correct installation of the trigger spring:
The trigger spring itself needs to be centered inside the hammer assembly such that the coil is centered vertically in the hole and the bottom (short leg) points straight down & goes to the right of the hammer pivot pin when you install the hammer.
With the hammer, trigger, trigger spring, connector and hand spring in place; take the long leg of the trigger spring and pull it up and over the hand pivot pin and let it rest down in the notch (rabbet) of the trigger.
The hand would then go on the pivot pin over the long end of the trigger spring and actually won't make contact with the trigger spring. The hand spring that rests on the connector pin had a bent end that rides in the notch on the back of the hand.
Hopefully this is of some assistance.
Here is a link to an excellent report that goes through detailed dis-assembly and may describe a bit better than I did.
http://www.gunreports.com/special_reports/handguns/Dan-Wesson-Revolver165-1.html
Let me know how you make out or if I'm not addressing the problem you are having.
-Dusty
February 11, 2009
Well that lasted about as long as it took to put the side plate back on. I was trying it out by holding everything in place with my thumb.
Now I'm thinking that the #38 hand might be worn allowing the trigger return spring to push it out of the way toward the side plate. Thus allowing the trigger return spring to fall through.
Numrich has the #38 hand in stock so I ordered one.
If putting in a new hand doesn't work then I have something else up my sleeve.
Putty. Make sure the trigger return spring is out of the way. Put a small piece of putty on the side of the hand and install the side plate. Remove the side plate and measure the thickness of the putty. Make a 'spacer' to go between the hand and the trigger to take up the space and hold the trigger return spring where it should be.
December 17, 2008
That kind of wear is really hard to imagine!
This might help: I see that I left out a very important detail in my description yesterday. There is a verticle pin (it goes through the body of the revolver) that the coil part of the trigger spring goes over - it holds the spring in place - the pin is just north of the hammer pivot pin. The milled out cavity in the hammer goes around that pin with the spring mounted on it.
With the spring coil on that pin it should not be possible for the long end to pass the hand pivot pin after the hand is installed!
So it sounds like you have a problem with that pin or with the spring.
Check that spring to make sure it is whole (and that the installation is correct, of course!).
The long end is not straight, it has ~30 degree bend on the end so it tracks evenly against the trigger “rabbet” as the trigger moves.
Good Luck and let us know!
February 11, 2009
Decided to take a real good look at this revolver in some good lighting.
1. The finish is different on the frame compared to:
a. the side plate
b. the crane assy and cylinder
c. the barrel shroud
The finish on the frame has a brownish tint to it. Reminds me of Parkerization but much darker. The rest has the deep, dark blueing.
2. using a magnifying glass, it looks like someone ground down the top 1/3 of the hand on the side that bears on the side plate to make it narrower and it has a slight bend at the tip to the side away from the side plate.
3. Put everything together without the hand grip and it seems to function normally.
4. Put the hand grip in place and it does not function normally. I had the gun cocked and then screwed the hand grip in place. Tried to pull the trigger and could not.
Conclusions:
1. it seems that someone put this gun together from parts from various DW 357 revolvers.
2. someone 'modified' the hand for a reason that escapes me. (I have one on order from Numrich)
3. I will need to either add washers to the existing hand grip screw or get a shorter screw. For now I'll add washers one at a time to find out how much shorter the screw needs to be.
Just looked in the screw hole in the hand grip. Seems that previous owner(s) didn't put the washer back in. Then proceeded to over tighten the screw. There is now an indentation about 1/8" deep in the wood at the bottom of the hole the exact size of the screw head.
I really need to add washers the find the proper screw length for this grip now.
December 17, 2008
OKay...that DOES sound "challenging"...
Info on the screw: Long Screw is 1.5" Short Screw is 1.125" Difference = .375" (3/8")
You can get either from DW in Norwich. The new screws have a washer permanently attached (older guns did not use a washer): https://www.danwessonforum.com/wp-content/uploads/2009PriceList.pdf
1 Guest(s)